The dry climate in the West raises many questions for homeowners and gardeners, especially during the current drought conditions and warm temperatures. Here are two answers to keep on top of.
Q. It has been a warm winter and a warmer spring. Can I plant my tomatoes now?
A. Sorry, but although it’s tempting to get a jump start on the planting season with thoughts of tomato salads, sauces and salsas on the horizon, following the standard planting schedule regardless of drought conditions or the somewhat consistent springlike temperatures.
Want proof? There is a chance of snow this week! And since Colorado weather patterns can change vastly, even in a single day, you should still wait until late May to plant tomatoes.
Here is the information straight from CSU: “For optimal growing, tomatoes need warm temperatures: above 52ºF at night and above 60ºF during the day at transplant. They are readily killed by a light frost. A week of cool daytime temperatures (below 55ºF) will stunt plants, reducing yields. Soil temperatures are also important; soil temperatures must be above 55 ºF before transplant can be successful. With these warm temperature requirements, planting time along the Colorado Front Range is typically late May. Do not plant tomatoes out into a cold spell and make sure soil temperatures are warm.”
Want to read a “super sweet” story about tomatoes in the meantime. Check our tale of survival in the garden from last year, after a hail storm did its best, but our splendidly productive little cherry tomato plants stood tall
Cool-season vegetables can be planted now, and other vegetables can be planted by mid-May. Consider mulching vegetable beds to conserve water and to suppress weeds.
Q. Can I fertilize and aerate my lawn given the recent drought conditions?
A. Normally, these are good lawn care practices, but with the ongoing drought, these practices are conditional, and that condition is water.
If the lawn was fertilized in the fall and it is greening up, skip the spring fertilization. Fertilizing during drought has its risks. If you have to fertilize, proceed with caution. Apply a light application of an organic slow-release fertilizer, ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet, and be sure to water in thoroughly with ½ inch of water. (Check local water restrictions and watering schedules.)
Similarly, aerating turf is usually done in spring and fall. Core aerating encourages deeper root growth and water infiltration and reduces compaction. After core aerating, water turf well to moisten the root zone.
To manage turf with reduced watering schedules, run the irrigation system using a cycle-and-soak technique; that is, running it multiple times and leaving time in between for water to soak in and not run off.
Kentucky bluegrass is resilient. It can be kept alive in a dormant state in drought situations simply by watering it every two to three weeks. This keeps the crowns of the plant hydrated even though the turf won’t green up. To make the best use of the water applied, look for persistent dry spots in the lawn. Check for clogged nozzles and alignment of nozzles.
Set out plastic cups to capture water and fix the coverage where there are irrigation gaps.
Martha Kirk is a master gardener in Arapahoe County.
