By Genevieve Ko, The New York Times
If you love food with the kind of passion that drives you to spend all morning at the farmers’ market to spend all afternoon cooking a three-course dinner, then you probably don’t love a boneless, skinless chicken breast. Itap a reality to accept, maybe even appreciate, for the virtue of the lean protein, a pre-Reformation indulgence paid in penance for the dinner sins of pork belly and bone marrow.
I used to feel that way. But this, this smoky beauty of a recipe — with its juicy swirl of lemon and olive oil, its fragrant charred garlic and parsley — is mouthwatering in the primal way of fried drumsticks and saucy wings.
The leanness of the breast, compared with the richness of increasingly popular thighs, gives the marinated meat a crystalline brightness, like a blue summer sky after a thunderstorm.
Culinary professionals often dismiss that pure flavor as boring. (Have you seen chef Tom Colicchio’s chicken breast rants on “Top Chef”?)
But Dennis Mao prefers it. He’s the founder and owner of Jidori Chicken, which sells bespoke birds to fine-dining restaurants.
“I really enjoy the breast,” he said. “If itap cooked properly, itap really good. It has a light chicken flavor, and itap very clean.”
This is true of the ones he raises because they’re small, in the 4- to 8-ounce range. Commercially available breasts are much larger, which can make that meat bland. It isn’t only the lack of fat but the monotony of texture, the inch or more of uniform thready strands, prone to cottony dryness since the meat takes so long to cook through.
But itap not just size that matters. Mao explained that no one factor determines a bird’s quality, like “heritage breed” or “free-range,” but a combination of how the chicken is fed, raised, handled, processed and shipped. For regular supermarket shoppers, he advises looking for the freshest meat since there’s “a huge taste difference with that subtle shift.”
The ideal option is “something slaughtered recently,” but labels don’t reveal that detail. So look for the latest “use before” and “sell by” dates if they’re listed and the terms “fresh” or “keep refrigerated,” markers that the chicken hasn’t been frozen, which deteriorates its quality.
If you can find and afford high-end A-cup breasts, go for it. For the rest of us, here’s how to make supermarket chicken breasts the star of summer:
Flatten the Meat
Often, butterflying the breast by slicing it in half leaves you with a thick slab of uniform meat striations that get boring after the second bite.
Instead, cut the breast to a third of its original height by slicing two shutters: Start with a deep slit from the center of the fat rounded top down to the pointy end without cutting all the way through. Then, position the knife at the halfway point of one cut side and slice to open up that side without piercing through. Repeat on the other side and you end up with two shutters that open out from the center.
Once unfurled, the thinner breast can be smacked into an even layer. (I use my bare palm, but a meat mallet or skillet works, too.) The breast won’t end up like a heart-shaped cutlet or even symmetrical like a Rorschach splotch, but thatap why it’ll be as irresistible as steak. The fibers are now not only shortened, but they run in different directions so each bite will offer some variety in chew.
Marinate Quickly
Marinades bolster flavor, but mainly on the meatap surface: Thatap another reason this chicken breast benefits from being so svelte. Besides, it needs only 15 to 30 minutes in the marinade — the time it takes to heat a grill.
Olive oil does a lot of work here, carrying the aromas of the garlic, lemon zest and pepper and ensuring that the meat tastes rich and browns well. The herbs, which char nicely, bring freshness; and the salt, along with the acid in the lemon juice, keeps the chicken tender and moist.
Get Your Grill Hotter
Many summers ago, chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten told me that most home cooks don’t get their grills hot enough to develop deep smokiness. A blazing fire will leave a whole breast burned outside and raw within but will give these extra-thin cutlets a rich char to encase juicy centers.
The heat is right when you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grate for 3 to 5 seconds. On a gas dial, that tends to be on the higher side of medium-high; and with charcoal, the lumps or briquettes should be ashed over and glowing red bright beneath the gray-white surface. Cover a gas grill while cooking to maintain that intensity of heat.
Remove the Meat Earlier
If the chicken breast isn’t cooked through, you can always put it back on the grate, but you can’t fix a dry, overcooked one. These slender planks are done in about 5 minutes and should be just opaque throughout with the faintest hint of pink, like a blush that fades after your crush walks away.
To check one, move it to a plate, stick a paring knife in the center and pull the blade back so you can see the meat top to bottom. If the breast needs a little more time, put it back on the grill and peek again in under a minute.
Hot off the grill or cold over the next few days, this dish bursts with the richness and zing that make even chicken breast doubters believe.
Recipe: Lemon-Garlic Grilled Chicken Breasts
This smoky beauty of a recipe, with its juicy swirl of lemon and olive oil, its fragrant charred garlic and parsley, is mouthwatering in the primal way of fried drumsticks and saucy wings. The leanness of chicken breasts, compared to the richness of thighs, gives the marinated meat a crystalline brightness. The way the meat is flattened here is the key to deliciousness: Often, breasts are butterflied by slicing them in half, which still leaves you with a thick slab of uniform meat striations that get boring after the second bite. Here, the breasts end up flatter. They won’t end up like heart-shaped cutlets or even symmetrical like Rorschach splotches, but thatap why they’ll be as irresistible as steak. Their fibers are now not only shortened, but because they run in different directions, each bite will offer some variety in chew.
By Genevieve Ko
Total time: 45 minutes
Yield: 4 to 8 servings
Ingredients
- 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts
- 1 large lemon, plus wedges for serving
- 4 garlic cloves, peeled
- 2 cups leaves and tender steams of parsley, cilantro, basil, mint or a combination, finely chopped
- 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for greasing grill
- 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
- 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preparation
1. Start by flattening the chicken breasts: Place a breast smooth side down on a cutting board, with the thick end at the top and the pointy end at the bottom. Cut a deep slit — without cutting all the way through the meat — down the center of its length. Pry open the slit, turn the knife blade to the left, parallel to the board, and slice perpendicular to the initial cut without cutting all the way through the meat. Repeat on the right side to end up with two flaps that open out from the center like window shutters to form a broader, flatter piece of meat. Use your palm to smack the lumpy parts flat, but don’t pound so hard that you tear the meat. Repeat with the remaining breasts.
2. Make the marinade: Use a fine grater to zest the lemon directly over a large bowl or airtight container, then run the garlic cloves over the grater. Squeeze in the juice from the lemon, then stir in the herbs, oil, salt and pepper.
3. Marinate the chicken: Add the flattened chicken and turn and rub it evenly with the marinade. Let stand at room temperature for at least 15 minutes if grilling right away or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours. If chilled, take it out of the fridge right before heating the grill.
4. Prepare the grill: Heat an outdoor grill to the higher side of medium-high. When itap ready, you should be able to hold your hand 5 inches above the grate for 3 to 5 seconds. If the grill grates aren’t already clean, use a grill brush to remove anything stuck to them. Oil a wadded up paper towel, grip it with tongs and rub it over the grate. (See Tip for indoor cooking.)
5. Set the chicken and any marinade clinging to it on the oiled grate, spreading each piece in a single, even layer. Cook, covered if using a gas grill, until the bottom is deeply browned and releases easily from the grate, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip each piece and cook until a paring knife inserted in the center reveals meat thatap just opaque throughout but still juicy, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a platter and rest for about 5 minutes before slicing and serving with lemon wedges for squeezing. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
Tip
You also can use a cast-iron grill pan on the stovetop. Heat it over high and lightly oil it before adding the chicken. Cook in batches if needed, turning the meat when it releases easily from the pan, until the meat is opaque but still juicy.
This article originally appeared in .
