LONDON – Every night, thousands of Londoners trek to the theater –
a ritual as British as afternoon tea. They savor venerable
Shakespeare and indulge – these days, anyway – in classic Jerry
Springer, a long leap from the Bard.
And so go out-of-towners. West End theater and its diverse playbill
of dramas, comedies and musicals is one of England’s biggest
tourist magnets – making it the theater capital of the world.
“Theater is very important for London,” says Val Austin, a
spokeswoman for Visit Britain, the country’s tourism promotion
agency. “It is a big draw for visitors. It helps us locals, too,
because we get to see good productions.”
In 2002, theater attendance topped 12 million for the first time,
with ticket sales at slightly more than 300 million (about $540
million). About a third of theatergoers were from overseas, a third
from outside London and a third from London.
More than 50 theaters – more than anywhere in the world – are
clustered in central London’s maze known as Theatreland or the West
End, a 1-square-mile area. Some of the world’s finest theater
emanates from here. This conglomeration presents more shows and
packs bigger audiences than its closest rival, New York’s
Broadway.
The playbill ranges from Agatha Christie’s quintessentially British
whodunit mystery, “The Mousetrap,” the world’s longest-running
production, which opened in 1952, to the quintessentially American
“Rat Pack –
Live From Las Vegas,” a musical scheduled to close Sept. 25 after
a 15-month run.
Some say London theater is more daring, and that productions are
more adventurous.
“Jerry Springer – The Opera” may epitomize that portrayal.
Nothing is more audacious than this comedic opera, a spoof on
syndicated television’s “Jerry Springer.” The production opened
in London last April at the highbrow Royal National Theatre’s
Lyttelton Theatre and moved in November to the Cambridge Theatre,
where it seized the West End spotlight.
It stars Brooklyn-born Michael Brandon as an amazing Springer
look-alike, thanks to the wonders of theatrical makeup. The opera
has all the earmarks of the outrageous talk show – lying, cheating
couples confronting one another, along with pathetic sex/food/drug
addicts – but without the language-censoring bleeps. I never have
heard so many four-letter words sung operatically – an entire
chorus chants the F-word over and over. It is surprising how much
less offensive potty mouths sound in soprano range.
“Jerry Springer – The Opera” is obscene, gross, sacrilegious –
and hilarious. The Busby Berkeleyesque ending is brilliant. Who’d
have thought to write an opera about the soap-opera-style daytime
TV program? Unfortunately, not Jerry Springer. Springer has been
quoted: “I only wish I’d thought of it first.”
Anyone planning to visit London should not miss it (unless you’re a
prude). Just don’t take the kids.
However, do take children to “Chitty Chitty Bang Bang,” a stage
production of the 1968 movie of the same name that starred Dick Van
Dyke. (What’s even more bizarre, James Bond creator Ian Fleming
wrote the original story.) Spellbound children (and adults) filled
the London Palladium on a recent January night, mesmerized by the
musical’s star – a magical flying car. At curtain call, the
audience screamed and applauded wildly.
While London and New York theaters present some of the same
productions – “Mamma Mia!” “The Lion King,” “The Phantom of
the Opera,” “Les Miserables,” “Chicago” and “Thoroughly
Modern Millie,” among the musicals – some productions are
exclusive to London. For instance, “Chitty Chitty Bang Bang” and
“Jerry Springer – The Opera” are playing only here, although
“Springer” reportedly will open on Broadway in 2005.
Also, one of Broadway’s biggest hits, “The Producers,” has yet to
make it across the pond. But that will change this fall. Richard
Dreyfus and British actor Lee Evans will open the play Nov. 9
(previews start Oct. 22) at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, the
oldest English theater still in use – in the same location since
1633 – where the Cole Porter musical “Anything Goes” will end its
run Aug. 28.
Tickets to London theater aren’t inexpensive, ranging generally
from about 20 ($36) to 60 ($108). Matinee and some mid-week
evening performances are cheaper. Some shows also discount tickets
for children.
And, like New York, London has a half-price ticket booth, open from
10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon-3 p.m. Sunday, although
most theaters are dark on Sundays. Located in Leicester Square, the
“TKTS” booth offers discounted seats for various (but not all)
West End shows on the day of performance only. Most tickets are
half-price, plus a 2.50 ($4.50) service charge. However, some top
shows, such as “Jerry Springer – The Opera,” are sold at full
price, 37.50 ($67.50) for the cheapest seats.
Other ticket booths in the area have signs advertising “The
Official Half Price Booth.” But they are not the official booths
operated by the Society of London Theatre, a trade association.
The society cautions against buying from other booths: “You will
almost certainly get a poorer deal, less choice of shows, worse
seats, plus a large booking fee at many of these outlets.”
However, ticket agencies such as Keith Prowse and Lashmars, among
others, are legitimate and trustworthy, although they charge fees.
The best place, though, to buy a ticket is directly from the
theater box office, says Emma De Souza, society spokeswoman. “If
you do buy tickets through an agent, ensure that they are a member
of STAR – the Society of Ticket Agents and Retailers,” she says.
West End theater has a huge economic impact on the capital city,
generating tax revenues of 48 million (about $86 million).
The theater’s popularity also spills over to other cash registers.
On a typical Saturday night, an estimated 95,000 pedestrians in the
West End patronize some of the 2,000 cafes, restaurants and pubs in
that area, before or after the theater. Many restaurants have pre-
or post-theater prix fixe meals.
While most of London’s theater action is centered in the West End,
smaller theaters known as The Fringe – and with cheaper tickets –
are scattered in and around London. In addition, Shakespeare’s
Globe Theatre, with performances from April to September, is along
the River Thames outside London in Southwark.
Of course, another London show always attracts crowds. On my way to
lunch before a Saturday afternoon Drury Lane matinee, our cab
halted as we circled the Queen Victoria Memorial sculpture and
passed Buckingham Palace. The palace gate swung open and a unit of
the royal guards emerged, marching smartly on its way down The Mall
to St. James’ Palace. Traffic came to a stop to let the guards
pass.
No marquees have the attraction’s name in lights, but everyone
knows the name of this performance: Changing of the Guard. The show
usually means standing room only, and even though it has played
here for more than a century, it always draws curtain calls.
Our driver said what we were thinking:
“That’s the best show in town and it doesn’t require a ticket.”
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West End: London’s West End theater district is roughly a
1-square-mile area bordered by Shaftesbury Avenue, Piccadilly,
Covent Garden and the Strand.
Buying tickets:
“TKTS”: This ticket booth in Leicester Square, operated by the
Society of London Theatre, is the only official half-price/discount
theater ticket booth in London. It is in the freestanding
clocktower building on the south side of the garden in Leicester
Square. Nearest Underground stations are Leicester Square and
Piccadilly Circus. Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday to Saturday; noon-3
p.m. Sunday. Tickets are sold only for same-day performance.
The shows for which tickets are available are posted in front of
the building. Not all shows sell tickets at the booth. Separate
ticket windows operate for matinees and evening shows. Tickets are
limited to two pairs per person. Most tickets are sold at
half-price, plus a 2.50 service charge per ticket. Additional
shows may be available at discounts or at full price. Credit cards
are accepted; no travelers’ checks. Information:
www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk/tkts.
Theaters: Theater box offices often have standby tickets or
returned tickets for same-day performances. They generally are open
from 10 a.m. until about 30 minutes after that evening’s show has
begun. They stay open throughout matinee performances. Call
individual theaters to see if tickets are available. Tickets also
may be purchased by credit card over the phone, although the
theaters sometimes charge a fee of 1 or 2.
Online: Tickets may be purchased online at
www.londontheatreguide.com/home/tickets. Many theaters and ticket
agencies also sell tickets online but buyers should beware. (See
Checklist below).
Agencies: Many ticket agencies are legitimate and reputable.
However, a few aren’t. Make sure the agency is a member of STAR
(The Society of Ticket Agents and Retailers). Visit
www.s-t-a-r.org.uk for a listing of members. Agencies charge a
booking fee of up to 25 percent of the face value of the ticket
(the price you would pay in person at a theater box office). Avoid
buying from ticket touts who may be hanging around theaters and
ticket agencies.
Checklist:
Ask to see the face value of the ticket. The booking fee should be
no more than 25 percent of the face value.
Ask to see a seating plan.
Ask if the seat has a restricted view. If so, the price should be
cheaper.
Avoid signing any forms. You may be signing away your legal
rights.
Theater Museum: This museum on Russell Street in Covent Garden, a
branch of the Victoria and Albert Museum, features exhibits about
the British stage, from Shakespeare’s day to present; an exhibit on
Sir Michael Redgrave and the Redgrave theater family; an overview
of West End theater, called “A Great Night Out!”; costume
workshops and make-up demonstrations; guided tours of the galleries
and exhibits; and a gift shop with theater memorabilia. Open from
10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Free admission.
www.theatremuseum.org.
Samuel French Ltd.: This bookshop at 52 Fitzroy St. (nearest
Underground Warren Street) carries play scripts, books on the
theater and related items. Information:
www.samuelfrench-london.co.uk.
Dining: Numerous West End restaurants offer pre- or post-dinner
specials for theater-goers. Try www.squaremeal.co.uk or
toptable.co.uk for suggestions.
Walking tour: A two-hour walking tour of Theatreland takes place
the last Sunday of the month. The tour starts at 2:30 p.m. outside
the Theatre Museum in Covent Garden. The cost is 8.50 and includes
tea and refreshments at a London hotel afterward. To make a
reservation, call (from London) 020 7557 6700 or (from the U.S.)
011 44 20 7557 6700.
Information:
Society of London Theatre’s website,
www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk, lists plays, theaters, upcoming
openings and how to buy tickets, among other things.
TimeOut London, a weekly arts and entertainment magazine, lists
everything going on in the West End (and all of London).
The London and Britain Visitor Centre, 1 Regent St., Piccadilly
Circus, has information on London. Also, longtime agency Keith
Prowse has a theater ticket booking desk in the center.
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Theater glossary
LONDON U.S.
Cover Understudy
Interval Intermission
Toilets/Loo/WC Bathrooms/Restrooms
Stalls Lower/Upper Orchestra
Grand Circle/Dress Circle Mezzanine
Upper Circle Balcony
Balcony Upper Balcony
