When you say “heirloom” you’re usually talking about an antique table or a set of dishes passed down for a few generations. In this case, we’re talking tomato seeds. Angelic Organics, a community-supported farm in Caledonia, Ill., has about the best explanation we’ve read on its website (angelicorganics.com):
“Heirloom tomatoes are grown more for taste, their strong point, than for yields, uniformity, durability, storage and shipability.” Hybrid tomatoes are those “bred for these latter qualities.”
It’s a trade-off, sure, but we’ll opt for taste whenever we can.
“The first time you bite into them, if you’re older, it tastes like what you remember from childhood,” said Kavanah Ramsier from Kinnikinnick Farm, also in Caledonia.
Look for Black Prince, Northern Lights, Prudens Purple, Black Russian and Kellog’s Break. Other popular varieties are Brandywine, Green Zebra and Purple Cherokee.
Buying tips: The season for these beauties lasts until colder temperatures set in, usually October. Find them at farmers markets and occasionally at grocery stores. Look for firm-skinned specimens, without breaks. The tomatoes are generally thin-
skinned, making them fragile. Careful when taking them home.
Storing hints: Keep them on the kitchen counter, never in the refrigerator, which will prevent them from ripening and turn them mealy. If tomatoes are unripe, place them in a paper bag to ripen, or just leave them on the counter or in a sunny spot. Eat within a few days.
Cooking suggestions: The simpler the treatment, the better – a little salt is all the adornment they need. But also try a platter of the tomatoes sliced and sprinkled with coarse salt, torn fresh basil leaves and a drizzle of olive oil. Put them in salads, especially panzanella, the Italian bread salad, sandwiches, salsas or anywhere their fresh taste is preserved, such as gazpacho.
