In a recent column on Penitente Canyon we explored the western reaches of the San Luis Valley. This week we turn our attention to the other side of the valley, bounded by the rugged Sangre de Cristo range.
I hoped to combine a day of photography in Great Sand Dunes National Park with a day spent researching this hike, so naturally I turned to an authority for advice. Charlie and Diane Winger have written the definitive guide to this area, “The Essential Guide to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve” ($19.95, Colorado Mountain Club). Their advice was the trail to South Zapata Lake. It turned out to be an excellent suggestion, as I’m sure you will agree.
After a wonderful, windy day on the Dunes we headed the next day to the South Zapata Lake Trailhead.
What a contrast: In a few miles you transition from a world of sand to one of snow and high peaks. Remember to take warm clothing on this hike (as well as the Ten Essentials, of course: map, compass, flashlight, food, extra clothes, sunglasses, first-aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches and a firestarter). Be prepared for a spectacular and unusual view of one of Colorado’s fourteeners, Ellingwood Point. We also visit the remarkable Zapata Falls, a local attraction.
Hike description
First, take a moment to enjoy the view of the Crestones and Sand Dunes from the parking area.
From the parking area, follow the signed trail for 0.5 miles to Zapata Falls. Let’s bypass these for now, because we want to get an early start on our hike to South Zapata Lake. We have a strenuous hike ahead.
Turn right at the signed trail junction just before the Falls (Waypoint “Trail junction”) and follow the signs to South Zapata Lake. This trail climbs 3,100 feet in 4.5 miles through varied terrain, starting in juniper groves and semi-arid conditions, then passing through aspen groves and pine forests, finally reaching the alpine zone above treeline.
As of Nov. 6, the trail was mostly snow-free, with the few snow patches well-packed down. This flank of the Sangres receives intense afternoon sun, which makes this time of year much more comfortable. Even in February one year, when we hiked out from a climb of Electric Peak, the baking sun proved to be quite uncomfortable, while the summertime hike out from Lake Como has most people complaining.
The first stream crossing (Waypoint “Stream crossing 1”) is shortly before passing an old cabin, the first of several along the trail. Note: Be careful at the small stream crossings – the rocks may have a covering of verglas (thin layer of ice) that makes for a slippery step.
At Waypoint “Campsite,” follow the trail as it turns sharply right, rather than taking one of the multiple social trails around the camp. At waypoint “Stream crossing 2,” leave the sunny hillside and enter trees on the south side of South Zapata Creek. This is where you will encounter more snow on the trail (possibly icy), but shortly you reach treeline and see the end of the valley, with Ellingwood Point dominating the skyline. The lake is a short distance farther at 11,900 feet. Be sure to check conditions before departure.
Heading down the trail, you will be reminded that the days are drawing shorter – as soon as the sun drops behind the Twin Peaks ridge, the temperature plummets.
Zapata Falls is worth the short detour, though the rocks are covered in verglas; use extreme caution in following the stream to a viewpoint immediately below the falls. This spectacular location feels subterranean. In the summer it is possible to wade in the stream.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Scrambles: A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains.”
The details
Getting to the trailhead
Take U.S. 285 south over Poncha Pass into the San Luis Valley. 4.7 miles south of Villa Grove, turn left onto Colorado 17 and follow this road south for 36.6 miles to Sixmile Lane (6N Ln.). Take Sixmile Lane (following signs to the Great Sand Dunes National Park) east for 16.1 miles to the intersection of Colorado 150. Drive south for 2.8 miles to the entrance to the Zapata Falls Recreation Area (administered by the BLM). Turn left into the recreation area and drive 3.6 miles on the washboard gravel road to the parking area for Zapata Falls. This trailhead is by the outhouse, not the Wilderness parking area you pass a few hundred yards earlier.
Hike statistics
Trailhead to South Zapata Lake: 3,300 feet of total elevation gain in 9 miles.
Difficulty: Strenuous on-trail hike.
USGS Quad: Twin Peaks, CO
