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Croatia

Who: Marie-Claire and Fred Hammer of Parker

Where: On the 12th-century wall that surrounds Dubrovnik. The walls are 25 meters high, stretch for 2 kilometers and completely surround this medieval but very chic, city. A self-guided tour/walk around the wall takes about one hour. The blue waters of the Adriatic can be seen in the background. During the 1991-92 Siege of Dubrovnik, more than 2,000 enemy shells fell on the old city, but almost complete reconstruction has taken place.

Best meal: At the Konoba Ekvinocijo, a family-run restaurant that specializes in grilled calamari stuffed with ham and cheese. South of the cathedral, it is friendlier and a bit more stylish than the many touristy restaurants near the main Stradum Street. Excellent Croatian wine and great service. All tables are outdoors, so this is a warm-evening venue.

Best deal: Stay in one of the many apartments outside the city walls, where comfortable, extremely clean lodging can be found for about $50 per night. There are numerous signs for Sobe (Croatian for rooms) or Apartmente in all the suburbs. Tourism is alive and well in Croatia.

Best time to go: July and August are to be avoided because of the heavy tourist influx. June and September are ideal from a weather standpoint; however, the city’s charm is magical year-round.

Don’t leave home without: An ATM card to draw out Croatian kunas (about 6 kuna to one U.S. dollar) will save you the surcharges that most credit card companies are now leveling on all foreign currency purchases. A book on the amazing history of both the city and country will greatly enhance your appreciation of the inspiring scenery.

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