It is always exciting to explore a new rock climbing area. Each area has its own personality and rock characteristics.
We recently had the opportunity to visit a climbing area that is relatively unknown but has tremendous climbing potential.
Unaweep Canyon, located close to Grand Junction, is an unspoiled climbing area in an amazing setting. As you drive into the canyon the road descends through geologic time, passing initially through canyon walls of red sandstone before emerging into a landscape of towering Precambrian walls of granite and gneiss. Climbing routes vary from one-pitch sport climbs to multipitch traditional climbs on high-quality steep rock.
Many of the climbs and approaches are located on private property. Climber access to many of these has been allowed to this point. The guidebook to the area, “Grand Junction Rock – Rock Climbs of Unaweep Canyon and Adjacent Areas,” by KC Baum (Graphic Press), is a good starting point for information.
Some climbs are on Bureau of Land Management land, while three of the most important crags (Hidden Valley, Fortress and Sunday Walls) are owned by the Access Fund, a national nonprofit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. The Access Fund does a tremendous job of supporting local climbing groups’ efforts to keep the crags open. For more information, check out
One of the shorter and very accessible routes highly recommended by locals is a sport route on a feature known as the Lower Sun Tower. On private land, the owners have allowed access to the crag. It is important to respect the privilege and to behave responsibly. This well-bolted moderate route called Sunup (5.8) turned out to be a delightful climb and a good introduction to the area.
Approach
The trail, marked at its beginning with a brown-and-white sign asking you to stay on the trail to and from the climbs (and a warning that you climb at your own risk), heads uphill a short distance before turning west and contouring above a private residence. The trail to the Lower Sun Tower is well-marked. Follow this excellent trail for perhaps 15 minutes to the base of the Lower Sun Tower. Sunup is the bolted route directly in front of you.
The climb
Varied face climbing on excellent, steep rock past seven bolts brings you to the chain anchors after 80 feet. Tall climbers will find their height an advantage in reaching the first clip. A small roof after the sixth bolt provides additional variety.
We found it better to rappel rather than lower, because of the placement of the anchors, even when you extend the anchor. The gully to climbers’ right can be used for a walkoff but is quite loose.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Scrambles: A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains.”
