Somewhere along the way, the submarine sandwich got hijacked by fast-food outlets. These days, a good old-fashioned, overloaded Italian hero piled high with meats and cheeses is far too hard to find.
That is, unless you know where to look.
One jackpot source is Littleton’s own Old Fashioned Italian Deli, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it storefront along Littleton Boulevard a few blocks west of Broadway.
There, if you can see your way past the darkened doors and gritty tables and the Marilyn Monroe prints that cover the walls like animal heads at the Buckhorn Exchange, you’ll find, as promised, a good old-fashioned Italian deli counter offering good old-fashioned Italian heroes, both hot and cold.
Some of them have dorky-cute mobster-philic names like “The Wise Guy” (turkey, pepperoni, mozzarella, cheddar, provolone and peppers ) and “The Assassin” (roast beef, cappocola, provolone, cheddar and jalapeño). Some of them have plainer monikers like “Hot Turkey Breast” (turkey, mozzarella and gravy) and “Italian Combo” (cappacola, Genoa salami and provolone).
My favorite from the cold side of the sandwich menu is the No.5, a.k.a. the “Old Fashioned Italian Sub,” a straightforward Dagwood of salami, ham, mortadella (my favorite), provolone, mozzarella, lettuce, tomato, onion (not too much) and a spritz of Italian dressing.
Another good cold option: “The Godfather,” a gargantuan sandwich of prosciutto, cappocola, salami and pepperoni, fully loaded. Plan to share this monster, or order a half-size sandwich (most of the sandwiches at OFID are offered in half sizes).
On the hot side, I’ll take the Italian beef combo, a gross-good mountain of roast beef and sausage on a hoagie, smothered in au jus and dog-piled by peppers, onions, and Giardiniera (a heady marinated condiment mix of peppers and vegetables).
Also hot and worth ordering, “The Terminator,” a three-cheese, two-meat Italian hero smothered in a zingy red sauce.
Diet food? Uh, no.
A few offerings fall sadly short, like the Reuben, which was soggy and underseasoned. Find a much better Reuben at Deli Tech (8101 E. Belleview Ave. in the Tech Center). Also disappointing, pizza, which had a crisp, flavorful crust but was overburdened by way too much cheese and oregano. And I can’t say much for the egg salad, which didn’t have any pizzazz. Get your egg salad at Zaidy’s (121 Adams St. and 1512 Larimer St. in Denver) instead.
OFID was founded by friendly, chatty folks from Buffalo, which explains the presence of a Buffalo-style hot dog (Sahlen’s, with Weber’s mustard and sweet relish) and a Beef on Weck (roast beef with gravy on a salty Kummelweck roll). The hot dog, in particular, is a great summertime lunch.
Have it with all the fixin’s, and wash it down with a cup of fountain root beer; self-service refills are free.
If you’re not stuffed by your sandwich, there’s something wrong with you. But no matter; get a piece of Mom’s cheesecake, creamy and sweet. Avoid the cannoli at all costs unless you’re certain they’re absolutely fresh; if they’ve been premade, they’ll be pallid and soggy.
OFID is not about high dining. It’s about down-and-dirty grub-munching. Still, the place could use a top-to bottom spit-shine, and I wouldn’t protest if they replaced a few of the tables and chairs.
It’s nice to see a few miles on the place (let’s face it, subs taste better in slightly seedy surroundings), but a thorough swabbing of the decks certainly wouldn’t hurt anyone.
Displaced western New Yorkers will be delighted to find a full range of Weber’s mustard products and condiments for sale. (Grab a modest jar of the horseradish mustard and spread it on links at your next barbecue; there’s nothing quite like the hit of vinegary spice it delivers.)
Also filling out the retail offerings: Heaping piles of dried pastas and mammoth jars of Giardiniera.
In an especially dark corner of OFID, there’s a board with a long, and growing list of names and locations of military men and women deployed overseas. If someone you love is stationed abroad, add a name to the list. No one comes through here without taking a moment to pause and reflect on the names.
Old Fashioned Italian Deli may not be so easy to find, but in a world of bland, boring drive-through submarine sandwich joints, it’s well worth the search.
Dining critic Tucker Shaw can be reached at 303-954-1958 or at dining@denverpost.com.
Old Fashioned Italian Deli
Italian Deli | 395 W. Littleton Blvd., Littleton, 303-794-1402 | ** | Very Good
Atmosphere: Grungy but charming darkened-door deli in a non-descript strip mall. Marilyn Monroe memorabilia everywhere.
Service: Counter staff couldn’t be friendlier or more enthusiastic about its products.
Wine: Not so much. Try root beer. (Free refills!)
Plates: Nothing over $10.
Hours: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday- Friday; 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.
Details: No reservations necessary. Parking lot downstairs. Great for groups and families. Kids will dig it.
Four visits.
Our star system:
****: Excellent
***: Great
**: Very good
*: Good
No stars: Needs work.
