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Librandi 2006 Cirò Bianco, 12.5 percent alcohol, about $10

I’ve long loved the reds of Cirò, dry, earthy, strange beasts made from the nearly unpronounceable gaglioppo. But I’d never paid any attention to the whites until I spotted one from Librandi, one of the region’s premier wine producers.

It turns out that 2006 is the first year it bottled a white Cirò. Made entirely from greco bianco, an ancient grape thought to have made its way over from Greece, it’s now a house favorite.

With crisp, citrusy fruit and pleasantly bitter herbal edge, it makes a refreshing after-work pour or a terrific companion to a quick sauté of fish.

Imported by Winebow, New York | Tara Q. Thomas

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