Elevenmile Canyon is one of our longtime favorite rock- climbing areas. Located in the heart of the South Platte region, the climbing is primarily on the granite domes characteristic of the area.
The domes offer bolted face climbs, as well as trad routes, and climbs cover the spectrum of difficulty from beginner to advanced. Even though the canyon is located at an elevation of 8,000 feet, the southern aspect of many of the routes means that the climbing season here can extend well into October, with people climbing throughout the winter months on those warm, sunny days. There are many campgrounds, though most close during the winter.
Elevenmile Dome provides a good introduction to the area. You’ll find both bolted and trad climbs from 5.4 to 5.10b, one to three pitches long. One of the most popular is Moby Grape (5.7), a moderate trad route.
We have found that another trad classic, at the left end of the face, The Overleaf (5.8), is difficult for its grade, but if you’re up to it, makes for a good climb. Other rock formations farther up the canyon that have good, moderate routes are Arch Rock, Turret Dome and Pine Cone Dome.
The Climb: Moby Grape is climbed in two to three pitches, the first pitch being the crux. Many parties climb the first pitch and rappel from the fixed anchors below the roof. Note that this requires two ropes. The first pitch climbs the prominent right-facing corner for about 140 feet to a belay stance below the large roof. To continue on the second pitch, make an awkward move left around a bulge and then diagonal up and left on easy terrain, aiming for the low angled slabs below the summit block. Rope drag may dictate breaking this pitch into two.
Descent: Traverse left (southwest) below the summit block until you reach a gully. Carefully descend the gully back down to the road.
Details
Getting to the trailhead: Drive to the town of Lake George on U.S. 24, 19.6 miles west of Woodland Park. Turn south on County Road 96. In 0.9 miles bear right (staying on CR96) at the intersection of County Road 96 and County Road 61. In 0.1 mile stop at the entrance station and pay a $5 day use fee. (The “America the Beautiful Annual Pass” is not honored at this location.) Continue on the narrow, graded road as it winds its way through the canyon. Elevenmile Dome is reached 2.7 miles past the entrance station. There is parking directly below the dome.
Difficulty: Moby Grape is rated 5.7 on the Yosemite Decimal System.
Approach: 20 feet
Gear: Moby Grape requires a standard rock rack. To rappel from the top of the first pitch, you’ll need two ropes.
Amenities: Campsites can be reserved at or by calling 877-444-6777. Some of the campground names are Riverside, Springer Gulch, Cove and Blue Mountain.
Guidebook: We use the excellent, comprehensive guide “Rock Climbing Colorado,” by Stewart M. Green (Falcon Publishing Inc.).
Caution: Remember, climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and you should always climb within your ability after carefully judging the safety of the route. We write about it; you take all the risks.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Scrambles: A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains.”
