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Briana Gonzales, 15, of Nezahualcoyotl Academia de Ballet Folklorico dances in the annual Cinco de Mayo parade Saturday in downtown Denver.
Briana Gonzales, 15, of Nezahualcoyotl Academia de Ballet Folklorico dances in the annual Cinco de Mayo parade Saturday in downtown Denver.
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The air was thick with a blend of aromas from dozens of green-chile recipes over Civic Center Saturday at the annual Cinco de Mayo festival.

The hearty, thick stew caused festival-goers to stop dead in their tracks, taste, then vote for their favorite chile.

“This one’s not as spicy as I like,” said Monica Chavez of Aurora, who stopped to taste one variety.

Cooks donned aprons, wielded their soup ladles and eyed the panel of judges who sat across them. They included former Denver Bronco Haven Moses, Azteca news anchor Ana Mejia and KOOL-105 radio personality “Cha Cha” Chavez.

“I grew up in Las Cruces (N.M.) and each year go back and buy three sacks of Hatch and have a roasting party,” Chavez said. “I am a true judge of chile. Who needs a boyfriend if you have great chile, garlic and a warm tortilla.”

Some of the restaurants competing this year were Los Habaneros, La No Ria Market and Restaurant, Santiago’s, Mercedes, Madera’s, El Potrera, Cherokee, La Loma and Garcia’s.

“I’ve won nine out of 10 chile cooking contests,” boasted Richard Marquez of La Loma. He handed out small cups of the savory chile to a sea of outstretched arms.

A parade on Saturday through downtown kicked off the Cinco de Mayo event, in its 21st year. It continues today from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. at Civic Center. Several hundred thousand people are expected to attend through the weekend.

Features for children include Euro Bungee jumping, a petting zoo, carnival rides, a rock-climbing wall, Mexican and Aztec dancers and music by the U.S. Navy Band and Los Lunaticos.

But it was the first-annual green-chile cook-off that made the masses’ mouths water. The eating frenzy lasted about an hour. Judges voted on flavor, meat, texture, consistency, aroma and color.

Color?

“It can’t be red or pinkish,” insisted judge and restaurant owner Jack Martinez.

The winner of the green-chile cook-off won $500, a wooden plaque and bragging rights. The top honor went to La No Ria Market and Restaurant in Denver.

Chef Ignacio Romero, 27, said his special green-chile recipe was handed down by his mother. He politely declined to share it, however.

“It’s good and people comment on its unique flavor,” Romero said in Spanish.

The winner of the People’s Choice Award went to Santiago’s, and hearty screams erupted from the crowd as that winner was announced.

“The people know, and that’s what counts,” shouted a jubilant Carmen Morales, who started the family-owned business 16 years ago.

Annette Espinoza: 303-954-1655 or aespinoza@denverpost.com

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