It is a vibrant green and looks like a small, underripe tomato hidden under a paperlike husk. Peel back that wrapping to reveal firm, slightly sticky flesh with a scent faintly reminiscent of freshly picked herbs. Take one bite, and the sweet-tart flavor rings with plum, apple and citrus notes.
The tomatillo, a close but very independent cousin of the tomato and Cape gooseberry, is known by several names, including husk tomatoes, jam berries and Mexican green tomatoes. Though widely available year-round, the main season is May through October. Allowed to mature, tomatillos may range from yellow to red, even purple. But they’re best picked just before ripening, when the flesh is still firm. Look for firm fruit with tight, unwrinkled husks.
With husks on, tomatillos keep for about two weeks stored in a paper bag and refrigerated, but husk them and store refrigerated in a plastic bag, and they keep up to four weeks. If you garden and find yourself with an abundance, try freezing them (spread them, sliced or whole, on a sheet pan in the freezer until solid, then place them in an airtight freezer bag).
Tomatillos are often used in salsas, especially those that lighten rich chicken and pork dishes. They lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods such as roasting, sauteing and stewing. Cooking softens the acidity and brings out the sweetness in the fruit.
For a simple meal, try grilling tomatillos — direct heat over a hot fire brings out the sweet notes of the fruit — by cutting them into wedges and lightly oiling and seasoning them. Quickly grill the tomatillos so they’re crisp-tender — a couple of minutes per side — then toss them with quick-grilled scallions, serrano chile and marinated, grilled shrimp. Divide the mixture among freshly warmed tortillas, add a side dish, and supper is served.
