It’s taken me a while to come around to Limon.
After a disastrous meal there on my first visit nearly two years ago — scattered service, lackluster food, too-sweet pisco sours — I took a few months away, deciding that I’d come too early, that I’d judged too harshly a restaurant that was still finding its feet.
But I couldn’t shake Limon, not least because it boasts a lively scene on a lovely patio on an excellent stretch of East 17th Avenue that also houses the chic-fun Parallel 17 and, now, the jewel-box dessert spot D-Bar.
And I’m glad I didn’t write it off. Because subsequent visits, spaced over the past year, have revealed unexpected depth and innovation that were missing from that first visit, qualities that have, with a few bumps, continued to drive Limon forward.
And upward.
Happily, the most marked improvements have been on the plate. Where early cebiches (their spelling) were abusively salty or depressingly mushy, recent cebiches have proven vigorous and refreshing, carefully constructed to deftly showcase the flavorful texture-marriage between fish flesh and citrus.
The best example is the zingy cebiche tiradito, with bass, red onion, cilantro and lime. The menu calls it “traditional,” which I can only assume is true; having spent only a week of my life in Peru, I’m no expert in its authenticity. But it is lovely.
A couple of the other small plates are worth a whirl, like the yuca and plantain chips, served with what’s called “huacatay bearnaise” (essentially a hollandaise spiked with huacatay, a Peruvian herb with a flavor that sits somewhere between mint and tarragon). Also smart, beet carpaccio with cilantro, cotija cheese and peppy ají amarillo oil. In a city well-populated with beet salads, this stands out.
Skip the chicharron de chancho, the crispy pork appetizer; everyone has a dish on the menu right now with the words “crispy” and “pork” in the title, and Limon’s is uninspired.
Tops on the entree list is the trucha, the pan-roasted trout. Secure a dollop of lime crème fraîche onto each bite; the creamy dressing softens the stronger corners of the trout-flavor and brings richness, not heaviness, to the dish.
The roasted half chicken, well- cooked and tastefully accessorized with a barely piquant potato salad, offers a comfort-food option, as does the lomo saltado, a Pacific-rim stir fry of beef, onions and tomatoes over garlicky rice.
And vegetarians are anything but underserved with the wide-reaching and lovingly designed quinotto de hongos de montaña, a risotto-like toss of quinoa, cheese, peppers, mushrooms, greens and salsa.
Service at the softly lighted Limon, while good enough, has not improved as decisively as the food. It seems to depend on just how busy the place is when you visit. Busy nights, surprisingly, find the staff in the zone, moving plates to and fro with efficiency and verve. On slow nights, they’re sluggish and uninterested. And unhelpful: On one recent visit, our server was unable to explain to us what huacatay was, waving away our query with a “it’s part of the sauce.”
But all was forgotten after a well-crafted pisco sour. OK, two.
As to the pisco sours, Limon now lays claim to serving an exemplary version, best enjoyed on the patio out front during a weekday happy hour, which runs from 5-7 p.m.
Limon, a long time in coming (to me, at least) now sits front and center on my regular-restaurant radar. I’m looking forward to what’s next.
Tucker Shaw: 303-954-1958 or dining@denverpost.com.
Limon
Peruvian. 1618 East 17th Ave., 303-322-0898,
** 1/2 RATING | Very Good/Great
Atmosphere: Lively room with wide windows and bar area. Lovely patio on East 17th Avenue for al fresco dining.
Service: Uneven but improving.
Wine: Small and friendly list, but the pisco sours really shine.
Plates: $15-$20.
Hours: 5-10 p.m., Monday-Saturday. Closed Sunday.
Details: No reservations necessary. Street parking. Wheelchair accessible. Happy hour 5-7 p.m., Monday-Friday.
Three visits.
Our star system:
****: Exceptional.
***: Great.
**: Very Good.
*: Good.
