Agrodolce is an Italian word that loosely translates to “sweet and sour.” Actually, not so loosely: “Agro” means sour and “dolce” means sweet. So, make that “sour and sweet.”
Generally, agrodolce sauces are made with vegetables (usually onions, and red onions at that), vinegar (usually red-wine vinegar) and sugar. Cabbage is also sometimes served agrodolce. The flavors are excellent served as a side with a pan-grilled steak or a crispy roast chicken.
Or, as in the recipe here (from the lovely new book “Seafood alla Siciliana,” by Toni Lydecker), fish.
The key to agrodolce is too cook the sauce long enough for the flavors to blend, but not so long as to turn the onions to mush. Traditionally, onions served agrodolce are sliced into thin wedges with the stem left intact; however, a more straightforward sliced onion is just as tasty and no one will miss the wedges.
This is an excellent, simple supper for those harried holiday-season nights when you want something simple, but still special and comforting.
Seared Tuna With Onions Agrodolce (Sweet and Sour)
From “Seafood alla Siciliana,” by Toni Lydecker (Lake Isle Press). Makes 4 servings, easily doubled for leftovers.
Ingredients
1 pound tuna steak, at least 1-inch thick, cut into 4 portions
Sea salt or kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
5 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 cup water plus extra as needed
1 large red onion, cut pole to pole in thin wedges
Extra-virgin olive oil
Several mint leaves, snipped into ribbons
Directions
Season the tuna on both sides with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, mix together the vinegar, sugar, water and a pinch of salt.
In a heavy-bottomed skillet, combine the onion with a little olive oil. Cook over medium-low heat, covered, until soft, about 10 minutes. Add the sweet-sour mixture, stirring as often as the liquid evaporates and the onions begin to caramelize. Transfer to a bowl.
Clean the skillet, add 1 tablespoon olive oil, and raise the heat to medium. Sear the tuna until well browned. Turn the steaks and pile the onions on top. As soon as the second side is browned, reduce the heat and add a little water. Simmer a minute or so more for medium rare.
Transfer the tuna to dinner plates. Deglaze the pan by adding a little water and cook until thickened; drizzle over the onion-topped tuna steaks. Sprinkle with the mint.
