Think of Ireland, and thoughts will likely turn to boiled potatoes, roasted lamb shanks and cider. And for certain, you’ll find these treats and more. But Irish cooks today enjoy a wider range of quality ingredients than ever, and a vigorous sense of national pride and purpose has taken the essentials — the deep-rooted basics of Celtic cooking — and given them a bold new look and energy.
A slew of new Irish cookbooks (including “Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” by Darina Allen and “Country Cooking of Ireland,” by Colman Andrews) offer a whole new perspective on Irish cookery — one that combines a fierce traditionalism with an optimistic, forward-thinking freshness. Together, they constitute a bold and clear restatement of that simplest, but most important tenet, of good cooking — feeding the spirit as much as the stomach.
Just in time for St. Patrick’s Day.
Dingle Pies (Hand-Held)
From “The Country Cooking of Ireland,” by Colman Andrews (Chronicle Books). Serves 8
Ingredients
PASTRY
2 cups white pastry flour, plus more for dusting
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 egg yolk, beaten with 2 tablespoons cold water
FILLING
3 tablespoons canola or sunflower oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
1 pound trimmed boneless lamb, preferably from the shoulder or leg, finely chopped
2 tablespoons white flour, plus more for dusting
1 1/2 cups beef or lamb stock
1 teaspoon minced fresh mint
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
2 tablespoons milk
Directions
Make the pastry: Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the beaten egg and toss with a fork, gradually adding 1 to 3 tablespoons more of cold water, until the dough can be gathered into a ball.
Halve the dough and on a board lightly dusted with flour, and pat each half into a 4- to 5-inch disk. Wrap each disk separately in plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour or as long as 24 hours before using.
Make the filling: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to soften. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl and set aside.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in the same skillet over medium-high heat. Add the meat and cook, stirring often, until browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Slowly add the stock, stirring to deglaze the pan. Return the vegetables to the skillet, add the mint and thyme, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the meat is tender, about 45 minutes. Uncover the skillet and cook until thickened, about 5 minutes more. Set aside to let cool.
Assemble and bake the pies: Preheat the oven to 400.
Roll out half of the pastry on a lightly floured board into a disk about 1/4 inch thick. Cut the disk into 8 rounds about 4 inches in diameter with a cookie cutter or the floured rim of a glass. Repeat the process with the remaining pastry to make 16 rounds in all.
Put about one-eighth of the meat mixture in the middle of a pastry round, then wet the edges with a bit of water. Top with a second pastry round, then press down the edges and crimp with the tines of a fork. Cut a slit in the top of the pie and transfer to a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Repeat the process with the remaining meat filling and pastry, arranging the pies on the baking sheet about 1 inch apart. Brush the tops of the pies with milk and bake until golden brown, about 40 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Roast Pork Belly
From “The Country Cooking of Ireland,” by Colman Andrews. Call ahead to your favorite butcher for a pork belly. Serves 6-8.
Ingredients
1 onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch sage, chopped
4 cups beef or chicken stock
1 pork belly, about 3 pounds
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup hard cider
8 cloves
Pinch of allspice
Pinch of cinnamon
6 tablespoons brown sugar
Directions
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.
Put the onion slices in a roasting pan large enough to hold them in a single layer, then scatter the garlic and half the sage over them. Pour in the stock. Season the pork generously with salt and pepper on all sides. Set it on top of the onions and spoon the cider over it. Scatter the remaining sage over the pork and then the cloves, allspice and cinnamon.
Cover the pan tightly with foil and roast, basting occasionally with pan juices, for 2 to 3 hours, or until the pork is very tender.
Uncover the roasting pan and coat the top of the pork with the brown sugar. Increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees, and continue roasting the pork, uncovered, for about 20 minutes or until sugar begins to brown. Spoon pan juices over sugar crust (sugar will dissolve). Continue roasting the pork for 10 minutes more or until the top is glazed and golden.
Transfer the pork to a warmed platter, reserving the pan juices and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. To serve, reheat the pan juices, deglazing pan with a little more stock or cider, if you like. Slice the pork, then strain the juices over it.
Green Leaf and Pea Soup
From “Favorite Food at Home,” by Rachel Allen (Morrow). Serves 6-8.
Ingredients
4 1/4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
6 scallions, trimmed and sliced
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound green peas (fresh or frozen)
9 ounces watercress, arugula or spinach, or a mixture of all three, roughly chopped and large stalks removed
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons light cream
Fadge
This potato pancake serves 4. From “The Country Cooking of Ireland,” by Colman Andrews.
Ingredients
1 tablespoon butter, plus more for frying
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups freshly made mashed potatoes
1/2 to 3/4 cup white flour, plus more for dusting
Directions
In a medium bowl, mix 1 tablespoon of butter and the salt into the potatoes. With your hands, work in enough flour to form a pliable dough.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board and shape into a round about 3/4-inch thick. Cut into 8 wedges.
Melt the butter in a large skillet and fry wedges, in batches if necessary, for about 5 minutes per side, or until cakes are golden brown on both sides. Garnish with fresh or dried herbs if desired.
To bake: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Bake on a lightly greased baking sheet for 12 to 15 minutes or until the cakes are golden brown, turning once.
Cider-Glazed Scallops
From “The Irish Spirit,” by Margaret M. Johnson (Chronicle). Serves 4 as main course.
Ingredients
1 cup Irish cider (or apple cider, hard or soft)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 pound sea scallops, rinsed and patted dry
Salt and freshly ground pepper
6 tablespoons unsalted Kerrygold Irish butter
1/4 cup minced fresh sage
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 small Granny Smith apple, unpeeled, cored, sliced and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
Directions
In a small saucepan, bring the cider and wine to a boil. Cook stirring frequently, for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the mixture is reduced to about 1/4cup. Set aside.
Season the scallops with salt and pepper. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. When the butter starts to brown, add the scallops and cook for 2 minutes on each side, or until browned. Remove from the heat, transfer to serving plates, and cover to keep warm.
Return the skillet to the stovetop over medium heat. Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Stir in the cider mixture, sage, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil, the stir in the apple. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the sauce thickens and the apple pieces are slightly tender. Season again with salt and pepper. Uncover the scallops and spoon the sauce over the top.
Directions
Place the stock, scallions and garlic in a saucepan, season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Boil for about 4 minutes, until the scallions are soft, then add the peas and continue to boil over a high heat, removing the lid once the mixture comes to a boil.
After 1 minute, add the roughly chopped leaves and boil for a further 30 seconds to 1 minute, until the peas and greens are just tender. Add the cream and puree immediately. Season to taste and serve.
Eve’s Pudding
From “Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” by Darina Allen (Kyle Books). Says Allen, “Individual Eve’s Pudding can be made in robust teacups.” Serves 4-6.
Ingredients
1 1/2 pounds cooking apples
1/3 to 1/2cup sugar
TOPPING
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup sugar
1 organic egg, beaten
3/4 cup self-rising flour
1-2 tablespoons milk
Directions
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Peel, core and slice the apples and put them in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with 1 tablespoon water and the sugar. Cover the pan and stew the apples gently until just soft, then tip into a buttered pie dish.
Whip the butter until soft, add the sugar, and beat until light and fluffy. Add the beaten egg by degrees and beat well until incorporated. Sift the flour and fold into the butter and egg mixture. Add about 1 tablespoon milk or enough to bring the mixture to a dropping consistency. Spread this mixture gently over the apple.
Bake in the oven for about 25 minutes, or until the sponge topping is firm to the touch in the center. Sprinkle with superfine sugar. Serve warm with homemade custard or lightly whipped cream.
