Believe it or not: Denver’s venerable Sushi Den has been open nearly 25 years. And, impossibly, it’s still as popular and well-attended as ever.
There have, certainly, been countless opportunities for product extension, franchising, expanding the carefully cultivated Sushi Den brand. But the folks behind the Den have been vigilant in the preservation and protection of their product, containing its offshoots within a half- block blob of real estate in the center of Denver’s South Pearl Street strip — all the easier for the folks in charge to keep track of things. So far, the family has just three members: Sushi Den, Izkaya Den and, as of 2009, Den Deli, a smart, accessible addition to the slowly growing brood.
Housed in a corner storefront across the street from Sushi Den, Den Deli took a few months to find its way. Initial visits, perhaps over-juiced by breathless initial word-of-mouth and printed reviews, left me unimpressed. But, now, after five months of working out the kinks, Den Deli is cooking on all burners.
The room is bright, open and airy, dominated by an extensive prepared-foods counter in the front, and a sprawling open kitchen in the back. There, cooks busy themselves at mealtimes preparing Den Deli’s signature noodle bowls, ramens and udons and so forth, each of which comes hot in a redolent broth (pork, veggie, miso, etc.) and accessorized with fresh vegetables and other accoutrements. In a town where the noodle scene heats up by the week, these bowls stand out for their rounded, umami-rich flavors and sharp notes of heat and spice.
Along the prepared-foods counter, you’ll find some favorites carried over from the Sushi Den menu, including miso-glazed black cod (surely one of the world’s great dishes, but one that’s become as ubiquitous — and, dare I say boring — as braised pork belly or blue-cheese crusted filet mignon) and supposedly spicy shrimp, which was wan and uninspiring. Look to the veggie items in the case for the real revelations, particularly the apparently simple but deceivingly complex pea-shoot salad and burdock root salad. Also rating: The unimpressive-looking but juicy and flavorful grilled Muscovy duck breast.
Also available to order, sandwiches, including (surprisingly) one of Denver’s better Cuban sandwiches. While not as soulful as the one you’ll find at Buchi Cafe Cubano on West 38th Avenue, this example is a meaty, pickle-y, mustardy guilty pleasure that, alongside a pile of thick-but-crispy fries and a soda from the cold case makes for a spot-on Friday lunch.
The pre-fab sushi in plastic bento boxes is as good as you’d expect here; while not as exhilarating, perhaps, as ordering an omakase tasting dinner across the street, the fish is fresh, beautifully cut (quality control here is in full effect), and satisfying. Eat in if you can; dragging this box across town to your desk dilutes the experience.
Do yourself a favor and skip dessert; instead, walk a block to Pajama Baking Co., at the south end of the Pearl Street strip, for a cup of rum raisin ice cream.
Attached to the kitchen area in the back of Den Deli is a small fish counter, where customers can score their own sushi-grade tuna or salmon to take home. The small selection is fresh, vibrant and lovely.
You’ll find friendly counter service at Den Deli, where the staff is knowledgeable and willing to share. If the selection overwhelms you, a smile will get you focused attention from the attendants.
Here’s the drawback to dining at Den Deli, and while it’s not an insignificant problem, it’s perhaps an understandable one: Meals here aren’t exactly cheap. Sit down for lunch with a friend, and you’ll home in on $30 or more before you get up to leave. Come alone, and $10-$15 will only just feed you. But handcrafted fare doesn’t come easy, and if you can’t afford to eat here every day, a noodlebowl won’t break you.
Bottom line: If you’ve been diligent all week and brought brown-bag lunches to work, you’ve earned a visit to Den Deli.
Den Deli
Japanese and sandwiches 1501 S. Pearl St., Denver, 303-733-2503,
** (Very Good)
Atmosphere: Airy but warm corner storefront flooded with natural light.
Service: Friendly and helpful.
Plates: Noodle bowls, $9.95 and up. Sandwiches, $9.95 and up.
Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. seven days.
Details: No reservations. Street parking. Wheelchair accessible.
Four visits.
Our star system: ****: Exceptional ***: Great **: Very Good *: Good
