Q: My sump pump fits in a smallish hole in the basement floor, and does a peculiar thing: It constantly checks for high water, and if there is high water, it turns on and pumps out water to bring it to the desired level. It’s costing me a bundle, perhaps one-third of my electric bill. — Dick, wants to save
A: That must be one of the new Smart Pumps, which are a slight smarter than they should be. Try enlarging the sump so that the water level is lower, out of reach of this cockamamie gadget (which checks the water level). Or, disable the gadget if you can, if it does not stop the pump from working.
Or, finally, replace the pump with one that is not so smart-alecky.
Q: I have forced-hot-air ductwork throughout the older part of my circa-1885 Victorian that also carries air-conditioned cold air.
I have been advised that the ductwork in the basement loses heat and should be insulated or any leaks plugged with a brush-on application for this purpose. The basement is cold in winter, so I’m always looking for solutions that lead to a snugger home. What kind of insulation is best and should it be installed by a professional? — Vincent in Quincy, Mass.
A: Yes, insulating all ductwork, including cold-air returns, is a good idea. I am not familiar with the paint-on material, but I am familiar with duct insulation, which is 1- or 2-inch-thick fiberglass insulation backed by gray vinyl. I insulated my ductwork with this material, and it does a great deal to reduce my heating bills. I think you can buy duct insulation in lumber and big-box stores. You can do it yourself, using a special staple gun to hold standing seams together. Use duct tape to seal joints.
The new Gorilla tape will hold better than the old duct tape.
The trim on my house is peeling badly, and the painter said the wood is so old it will not hold paint. The house was built in 1956. — KarenA: That makes the wood 54 years old, and very old wood (not punky or decaying) may not hold paint very well. Your idea of replacing some of the trim is good, and you can consider putting up the new AZEK trim pieces of solid vinyl, white and virtually everlasting.
Q:
We would like to leave exposed brick in our house, but need to contain the old mortar. What can we use so the bricks and mortar stay in place and look nice? A friend suggested white glue with water. Any other suggestions? — Jennifer
Q:
A: Beware of friends’ advice. They mean well, but. … Nothing is required to keep mortar (and bricks) in place but mortar. If mortar is crumbling, the wall must be repointed, meaning old mortar is chipped out and new installed. If the mortar is in good shape (not crumbling and falling out), spruce up the bricks with a coat of masonry sealer.
