HERAT, Afghanistan — In the long line of traffic waiting for the lights to change at a busy intersection in Herat, one car is attracting an unusual amount of attention. Passers-by stop and stare at the nondescript, slightly battered Suzuki.
The reason is simple: behind the wheel sits Soraya, a 26-year-old student who is one of a small, but growing number of women daring to drive.
Soraya, who keeps her headscarf tightly wrapped to avoid any charges of immodesty, is used to being stared at, and worse. The numerous dents in her car were made by young men who attacked the vehicle and called her names for daring to flout cultural norms.
The university student said she’s not worried that her family will bow to pressure from relatives who urge her parents to take away her car keys.
“My family loves me, and they wouldn’t stop me driving because of pressure from our relatives,” Soraya said. “The main challenge comes from prejudiced, rude young men. I have to close the car windows even in hot weather so as to avoid hearing their insults and to be safe from harassment.” Soraya’s father, Farid Ahmad Mohammadi, 46, said he has every intention of standing by his daughter.
“What our relatives say about my daughter driving is of no consequence to me,” he said.
“What’s important to me is her development.” Despite opposition, the number of female drivers is rising in Herat, a province known for its high levels of culture and education, as well as its conservatism.
Herat provincial traffic police say the number of women taking driving lessons has risen 60 percent over the past year. Hezatullah Hezat, the head of driving license distribution, said that 600 licenses had been issued to women in the province so far this year. To qualify for a driver’s license, an applicant is tested after completing three weeks of classroom instruction and one week of actual driving.
“The women have displayed intelligence in the theoretical lessons, but they’ve had some problems with the practical part because they don’t have the experience,” Hezat said.
Nuriya, 30, got her driving license three months ago and, like Soraya, faces regular harassment.
Noting that women were banned from driving under Herat’s former governor, Ismail Khan, she said most of the harassment comes from conservative clerics or members of armed factions, because “these people do not want women driving.” She is adamant that nothing will make her give up this newfound freedom, saying, “Even if the problems get worse, I will not give in to the unfortunate views of biased, conservative people. I will fight for my rights.” And it will be a struggle to change the views of many who argue that allowing women to drive exposes them to the gaze of strangers and is therefore wrong.
Sayed Ghulam Faruq, a Herat shopkeeper, said that he would never allow any female member of his family to drive.
“Muslims will never allow their women to be exposed to the eyes of strange men, as this issue has been mentioned several times by the mullahs preaching in the mosques,” he said.
Mawlavi Abdul Baset Monawari, the prayer leader at a Herat mosque, said women were required to avoid anything that focused attention on their outward appearance and could lead to immorality.
“Women driving is one of those actions,” he said. “Women should pay more attention to looking after their families and children.” Attitudes may change with the next generation, however.
“I see women as human beings deserving of all human rights, and I can’t see any problem with them driving or working,” said Naimatullah, a student at Herat University. “The idea of restricting women’s rights is outdated … Women driving is a sign that a society has a high cultural level.”
——— ABOUT THE WRITER Sudabah Afzali is a reporter in Afghanistan who writes for The Institute for War & Peace Reporting, a nonprofit organization that trains journalists in areas of conflict. Readers may write to the author at the Institute for War & Peace Reporting, 48 Grays Inn Road, London WC1X 8LT, U.K.; Web site: . For information about IWPR’s funding, please go to .pl?top—supporters.html.
