It looks like Tom Wolfe’s “Masters of the Universe” — the fictional kings of 1980s Wall Street — are alive and well, and they’re hanging at the bar at the Four Seasons. Since the place opened in early November, Denver’s business elite are flocking to Edge Bar and Restaurant (1111 14th St.), the Four Seasons’ snazzy hangout. At happy hour, the bar is a sea of sharp suits and smart-phone screens, with handshakes and smiles all around. Deals are getting made, helped along by top-shelf liquor and company credit cards.
Whoever designed Edge knew what they were doing. As you walk into the restaurant from Arapahoe Street, a wide lobby splits the space in two: a serene steakhouse on one side, a rollicking bar on the other. Even if the steakhouse side looks quiet from the outside, press on.
Open the door, and it’s obvious a party is happening. Follow the merry sounds to the left and Edge’s bar is swinging. The bar stools are almost full. A long, high community table to one side is getting packed. Waitresses in short black dresses hustle across the floor.
The Edge bar spills down one side of the hotel’s first floor, a wood-draped collection of couches and cozy nooks in tones of gold and caramel. An early arrival is essential to secure one of the couch tables, though there’s full service at the community table, too.
Moments after you sit down, a server presents a small collection of bar snacks: olives, bits of pappadam and addictive little cheese crackers. Like tapas at a bar in Spain, they’re just little nibbles to keep guests noshing as they drink — and they’re replenished for free.
The happy-hour prices offer a chance to get to know the restaurant side of Edge, which bills itself as a “progressive American steakhouse.” Predictably, the food’s a little on the pricey side for those without an expense account, but the deals are decent 5 to 7:30 p.m.
Select appetizers are 50 percent off, including the glorious truffle-Parmesan fries and pork won tons. Drafts of Stella Artois were $3 on a recent visit, and a generous pour of house cabernet sauvignon went for a very reasonable $5.
There’s a daily special, too, to tempt people into going whole-hog. On Tuesdays, for example, the special is “Burgers and Burgundy”: grass-fed beef and jalapeño sliders for $7, with an option to add a glass of burgundy on the side.
The three little burgers are so rich and lovely that suddenly some other things on the menu start to sound good. Regular-priced things, like the “Rocky Mountain sushi” — various (cooked) meats wrapped up like sushi rolls.
Just like its clientele, Edge wants to negotiate and make a deal. Have a couple of cheap bites and loosen up with some affordable alcoholic beverages. Suddenly the prices don’t seem so unreasonable, and that 13-ounce filet mignon on the dinner menu is looking mighty fine. Maybe it won’t work for tonight, but on another visit. Before a show across the street at the Performing Arts Complex, perhaps?
The deal is done.
Elephant in the room.
Cheesy holiday parties have moved out of the office and into the nightclubs with 24K Lounge’s (1414 Market St.) White Elephant gift exchange, tonight.
Bring a gift valued at about $20, and add it to the exchange. Gift-bringers are also entered into a raffle to win a three-day, two- night trip to New York. You might not win the trip, but you’ll walk away with a little present from a stranger.
Doors open at 9 tonight. Make a reservation by calling 303-888-0655.
New name, deep resume.
Electronic-music upstart Max Vangeli mans the decks at Beta (1909 Blake St.) on Saturday.
Vangeli’s gained a lot of attention lately with his remixes for the likes of Gorillaz, Steve Angello and Erick Morillo. He’s also a producer in his own right, getting spins from big names like David Guetta and Tiesto.
Advance tickets to Saturday’s show are $10 on .
