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The Abyss Imperial Stout, by Deschutes Brewery $11.49 per 22-ounce bottle

Deschutes Brewery is a favorite for its Black Butte Porter, Mirror Pond Pale Ale and Obsidian Stout, but the brewer kicks it up a notch with its Reserve Series. Among this group of five world-class beers is the Abyss, a just-released imperial stout that is aged in French oak and bourbon barrels. Its thick, beefy body and black pour portend the dark journey of scent and flavor to come. Espresso and roast malt are upfront in the aroma, but the nose is somewhat subdued compared with what’s ahead. In the mouth, the coffee and malt are joined by a remarkable crew of flavors: Cocoa, molasses, tobacco, fig, oak and licorice are distinctly identifiable in this complex behemoth. The big, silky body coats the mouth and adds a tactile experience that puts The Abyss in legendary territory. As impressive as this beer is, it’s also recommended for cellaring, with a “best after” date stamped on the label, so buy extras to put away. Alcohol by volume of 11 percent.

Note: The 2010 Denver Post Beer of the Year will be announced in the Dec. 29 Food section.

Deschutes Brewery, Bend, Ore;

Marcus Chamberland; mchamberland@denverpost.com

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