HONG KONG — If one looks up at Hong Kong’s skyline of soaring office towers and mammoth apartment complexes, it’s hard to imagine that a short ferry ride could whisk you away from this bustling metropolis to another world — a world where there are no high-rises, no cars and no crowds.
Just 8 miles from Hong Kong’s Central Pier, Cheung Chau offers a perfect escape from the big city, with a taste of Hong Kong’s old island culture and some of the cheapest fresh seafood around. It was once a pirate’s cove — a place where renegades of the South China Sea stashed their booty. Today it’s a hideout for tourists and locals alike.
Cheung Chau is just one of several outlying islands in the Hong Kong harbor. In fact, more than half of Hong Kong’s total land mass can be found spread out across 23 country parks, offering plenty of options for day trips. Cheung Chau means “long island” in Chinese, but it’s better described by its unique dumbbell shape, where red, granite cliffs to the north and south sandwich a narrow village in between.
My boyfriend and I started our day by boarding a morning ferry (boats run twice an hour) from Hong Kong’s Central Pier. Along the way, we read up about Cheung Chau’s history and expected to spend a day in an isolated fishing village rich with culture and tradition. When we arrived, we were surprised to see modern conveniences like a big-chain grocery store and an HSBC ATM, just steps from the dock. Then the sound of a wailing oboe pierced the air and dispelled our disappointment. We turned around to see a traditional funeral procession. Family members of the deceased disembarked from the ferry all dressed in white, the color of mourning in Chinese culture. It took just a few minutes to walk across the narrowest part of the island to Tung Wan, a small but sandy beach good for swimming or sunbathing on a warm day.
On one side of the beach is the Windsurfing Centre, run by the family of Hong Kong’s Olympic gold medalist Lee Lai-Shan. Here, you can rent windsurfing equipment and sea kayaks for a ride out on the waves.
We decided to explore the southern part of Cheung Chau, passing by a stone carving that’s said to be over 3,000 years old near the Windsurfing Centre. It isn’t known who made these drawings, but archaeologists believe the images may be that of sea monsters, adding to the myth and legend of the surrounding seas.
“Mini Great Wall”
As we began our uphill hike, we were curious to see what the signposts were calling the “Mini Great Wall.” We had to use our imagination with this one. The “wall” bears no resemblance to one in Beijing but is more like a scenic path along the island’s rugged coastal landscape.
Our climb eventually led us to a pavilion where we stopped to enjoy a panoramic view of the sea. The path continued, bringing us past peculiar-shaped rocks named Vase Rock and Human Head Rock. Farther along, you’ll encounter Pirate’s Cave where 19th-century pirate Cheung Po-tsai is said to have stashed his treasure. The cave is more of a crevice than a cavern; bring a flashlight, and venture in on your hands and knees.
The busiest time of year here is in spring, when islanders organize a thanksgiving and religious “Bun” festival marked by ceremonious prayers and processions commemorating the god Pak Tai. For three days during the festival, May 10-12 this year, the entire island goes vegetarian. Even the local McDonald’s partakes in this, taking meat off the menu and selling burgers made of mushrooms instead.
The Details
CHEUNG CHAU: Island in Hong Kong’s harbor accessed from Hong Kong Island Central Ferry Terminal at Pier 5; two departures an hour. High-speed ferry, 30 minutes; slower large ferry, 45 minutes. Fares, $2-$4 (15 to 30 Hong Kong dollars). During Cheung Chau’s “Bun” festival, May 10, the island will be very crowded, and food will be pricier than normal. Ferry schedule: bit.ly/ffHGPD.
HONG KONG TOURISM:
