Also known as the GRR, the Great River Road starts at the headwaters of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca State Park in Minnesota and follows the Mighty One to Venice, La., where the water finally empties into the Gulf of Mexico. Some of this route is lined with gorgeous scenery, some not so much, but the sections with the most character, the most Mississippi-ness, are, not surprisingly, found in the state named for the river and the one immediately southwest. The Delta, multiple birthplaces of the blues, the antebellum mansions of Natchez — best seen during the annual spring and fall pilgrimages, but anytime is nice — the barbecue joints of Baton Rouge, the sheer tenacity of New Orleans. You might want to turn around and drive back up again, but only if you have good air conditioning.
The route most traveled: The fact that you have purposely come off the faster interstates that run the same route nearby means you understand that this is going to take some doing. U.S. 61 is what will get you there, but some portion of it is always under construction or a mess near the cities.
Off the beaten path: About an hour east of U.S. 60 near Clarksdale on Mississippi 6 is the lovely University of Mississippi campus in Oxford. Area art galleries, restaurants, shopping and night life are what you’d expect from a thriving college town — contemporary, sophisticated — often in marked contrast to some of the places you’ve been driving through.
The kitschy-kitschy coup: The quirky city of Clarksdale believes Muddy Waters once lived in a cabin here and that Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil at the intersection of U.S. 61 and U.S. 49, the famous “crossroads.” Believe both, and also that the blues were born in the Delta and live on here, often in places you will only find by being nice and asking around. There’s a big guitar shrine at the crossroads and markers of all things blues everywhere you turn, which means fans will have their cameras clicking away every two minutes.
Refuel on road food at: any place that smells like good ‘cue, but if you make it to Clarksdale, check out Abe’s Bar-B-Que (616 N. State St., 662-624-9947, ). I first heard about Abe’s from those arbiters of American road food, Jane and Michael Stern, and this turned out to be the kind of discovery that makes serious barbecue aficionados weep for joy. Sweet, smoky pig meat, about a half-pound of it, packed into a double sandwich (with an extra bun in the center). Vinegar-spiked sauce, with a hint of sweetness, a touch of peppery bite. Just enough to keep the meat moist but still let the pork sing. That’s the Big Abe, and it still costs $5.29. The tamales are hot and amazing too. The place is always packed and kind of grimy. So what?
Sweet dreams: U.S. 61 is chain motelville, and so by the time you get to New Orleans, sinking into something that offers luxurious bed linens with high thread-counts is a treat. The Maison Dupuy Hotel (1001 Rue Toulouse, 504-586-8000, ) is a quick jaunt from Bourbon Street but mercifully out of earshot, and it feels like you’re coming home when you stroll back to your room after a night on the town. The hotel is close to classic New Orleans restaurants such as Antoine’s and the Napoleon House, where you can sip a Pimm’s Cup at the bar. The rooms are quite comfortable, and those overlooking the hotel’s interior courtyard offer walk-out balconies, perfect for that morning cup of chicory coffee. Rates start at $99 weekdays and $109 on weekends.
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