$7.98 per 22-ounce bottle
There’s no law that says the seasons have to dictate what you’re drinking. Sometimes, you just want to interrupt the summer’s parade of pilsners, wheats, saisons and IPAs and go over to the dark side. Old Viscosity is one of just four year-round products of the still young (founded in 2006 after outgrowing its pizza parlor origins) but well-acclaimed Port Brewing Co. It most resembles an imperial stout but mixes in elements of porters, among other styles. Not as thick as its name implies but with a smooth mouthfeel, it does pour as black as old motor oil, with a medium-density brown head. Another surprise is its soft nose, barely registering the murky, mysterious flavors to come but presenting espresso, dark chocolate and a hint of molasses. On the palate, this is a rich mix of the aforementioned, as well as some porterlike roasted malt and smoke, plus dark fruit, perhaps owing to the 20 percent of this blend that is aged in bourbon barrels. The warmth of alcohol is evident, as you’d expect in an imperial, with alcohol by volume of 10.5 percent. After you’ve cooled off with lighter brews, save room for OV as a late-night sipper. Port Brewing Co., San Marcos, Calif.;
Marcus Chamberland; mchamberland@denverpost.com
