As much as I love a smooth, velvety winter squash bisque finished with spices, fruit and ginger or a luscious puree fattened with butter and crème fraîche, there’s something to be said for a coarse fork mash that emphasizes the special qualities of really fresh winter squash — its juiciness, and toothsome yet agreeable texture.
Like any food, winter squash (also known as hard squash) is better when it’s eaten fresh. Although you can find winter squash all year round, its season extends from early September to late November. Anything that’s not purchased during those months is most likely starchy, dense and flavorless.
Tyler Skrivanek, my talented chef de cuisine at Duo, showed me this simple technique. You halve the squash, dot it with butter and brown sugar, roast it in a hot oven (a little caramelization deepens the flavor), then scoop out the flesh and fork-mash with olive oil, lemon juice and a little nutmeg.
Tyler likes to make this with a variety of squashes such as acorn, butternut and spaghetti, and serve it hot in a crock, like a fondue, accompanied with toast and fresh ricotta.
My one embellishment to Tyler’s simple recipe is to drizzle the squash spread with a homemade sage oil. The oil is made by simmering a handful of sage leaves and a few cloves of crushed garlic in a bit of oil. It adds a fragrant earthiness to the sweetness of the squash and is also delicious drizzled on white beans or used to finish a mustard vinaigrette.
Note: Use fresh nutmeg only, grated just before you serve it. If all you have is that ancient jar gathering dust on the spice rack, don’t even bother.
Winter Squash Spread
Makes about 4 cups.
Ingredients
1 medium butternut squash or two acorn squash, halved
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
4 tablespoons olive oil
Squeeze lemon juice
A few gratings fresh nutmeg
3 tablespoons Sage Oil (recipe follows)
Fresh ricotta cheese for serving
Toast points for serving
Directions
To make the Winter Squash Spread: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Halve the squash and scoop out the seeds. Season with salt and pepper, dot with brown sugar, butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil, and roast, cut side up, until tender and lightly caramelized, about 1 hour.
Remove the squash from the oven, and when cool enough to handle but still warm, scoop out the squash pulp and fork-mash, adding the rest of the olive oil, the lemon juice, nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste.
Drizzle with the sage oil and serve warm with ricotta cheese and toast points on the side.
To make the Sage Oil:Place 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil in a small pot. Add 5 cloves peeled, crushed garlic, a handful of fresh sage and a pinch of salt. Over low heat, bring the oil to a simmer. Do not allow the garlic to brown. Remove the oil from the heat. Place the pot in the refrigerator and cool completely. Strain. This will make more than you need for the squash spread, but it will keep in the refrigerator, covered, for up to two weeks.
