When it comes to a light, refreshing summer treat, it’s hard to beat the classic ice pop, that tasty chunk of fruit-flavored ice sitting proudly on a stick.
But the ice pop of your childhood — most of us were introduced to them through the popular Popsicle brand — has undergone some changes from such traditional flavors as cherry and lemon-lime.
A new generation of ice-pop mavens are playing with such sophisticated flavor combinations as cantaloupe and basil, white grapefruit and star anise, cucumber and sesame, watermelon and peppercorn or kiwi and pomegranate.
Sometimes even a splash of alcohol such as wine or rum is tossed in.
“It’s limitless,” says Christopher Mosera, who owns at 1284 S. Pearl St. “I’m a chef by trade and I just got intrigued by what you could do with all the flavors that are out there.”
Mosera, who started out about four years ago with a bike-powered cart bearing an insulated box, reckons he has concocted 700 flavor combos since he started.
Now working out of a storefront that’s been featured on the Food Network’s “Unique Sweets” show, Mosera makes his ice pops in batches of 100. Once they are gone, he moves to his next creation.
Among his offbeat offerings are a raspberry ice pop sheathed with a sweet corn emulsion.
“We also do an avocado-orange version,” he says. “If a popsicle could be sexy, this one would be.”
Nadia Roden, who has a successful ice pop venture in New York City, recently authored “Ice Pops!,” (Sterling Epicure) a recipe book she co-wrote with her nephew, Cesar Roden.
“Something so simple turned into something so special,” she says of her interest in the concoctions, which she test-drove on friends and family. “I love lowbrow being highbrow. When I started making them to sell on the street, no one had thought to turn the ice pop into something very special, so it felt adventurous and thrilling. There’s also something very sensuous about an ice pop — it appeals to all the senses.”
Her favorite recipe in the book?
“Ruby grapefruit and Campari,” she says. “It was the first one I made. I tried to keep it away from my daughter because of the alcohol but she found it and loves it. My mother had told me that in France they give the children wine for lunch in school, so I decided to be relaxed about it.”
The recipes and techniques for ice pops are simple. Molds and sticks are available at specialty kitchen shops and general-interest stores alike. Beyond that, all you need is a freezer.
Best of all, ice pops can last several months in the freezer section of your refrigerator.
William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@ denverpost.com or twitter.com/williamporterdp
Cucumber-Sesame Popsicle
This recipe comes courtesy of AikoPops in Denver. The simple syrup the recipe calls for is made by melting sugar in simmering water in a 1-1 ratio, then letting it cool. Makes about 6 popsicles.
Ingredients
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped
3 cups of water
1 cup of simple syrup
Black and white sesame seeds
Directions
Pulse first three ingredients in a blender. Pour mixture into popsicle molds and sprinkle ½ tablespoon of the sesame seeds onto the bottoms of the ice pops. Insert sticks and freeze.
Cherry-Goat Cheese Popsicle
This novel recipe serves 6.
Ingredients
1 pound of pitted fresh cherries
4 ounces fresh goat cheese
3 cups of water
1 cup of simple syrup
Directions
Blend ingredients together in a food processor, pour into molds and insert sticks. Freeze.
Apricot and Pistachio Ice Pops
Apricots make for a velvety concoction. Choose ones that are only slightly soft and have a sweet aroma. From “Ice Pops!” by Cesar and Nadia Roden. Serves 8-10.
Ingredients
1 ⅔ cup water
⅔
cup
granulated sugarr
2
t
ab ⅜ espoons
fresh ⅜
y
s
qu
eezed ⅜ emon juice
1
po
u
nd 2 ounces apri
cots, c
ut
in ha ⅜ f and
pitted
½ t
ea
spoon a ⅜ mond e
x
tractt
¼
c
up s
he ⅜ ⅜ ed pistachi
os,
chopped
Directions
Put the water, sugar and lemon juice in a medium non-reactive saucepan and bring to a simmer until the sugar has dissolved.
Add apricots and simmer until they have broken down, about 5-10 minutes. Remove pan from the heat and let the mixture cool to room temperature.
Stir in almond extract and chopped pistachios until well-mixed.
Pour the mixture into ice pop molds, leaving ¼-inch space at the top to let the mix expand during freezing. Insert the ice pop sticks and freeze. You can also roll the ice pops in crushed pistachios before serving.
Variation: Add ¾ cup heavy cream to the apricots after they’re cooked, and only use 1 cup of water.
Ruby Grapefruit and Campari Ice Pops
The grapefruit juice and Campari make for a bracing ice pop. From “Ice Pops!” by Cesar and Nadia Roden. Serves 8-10.
Ingredients
½ cup water
½ cup granulated sugar
2½ cups fresh ruby red grapefruit juice from about 4 grapefruits
¼ cup-plus Campari
Directions
Put the water and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the sugar has dissolved. Mix together with the grapefruit juice and Campari.
Pour the mixture into ice pop molds, leaving ¼-inch at the top to let the mix expand during freezing. Insert ice pop sticks and freeze.
Fresh Mango Ice Pops
This recipe is a nod to Indian and Pakistani street vendors in London. From “Ice Pops!” by Cesar and Nadia Roden. Serves 8-10.
Ingredients
4-5 medium Indian or Pakistani mangoes, or 3-4 larger Brazilian or other mangoes
Squeeze of lemon juice
1 cup water, on the generous side
Directions
Peel the mangoes, carefully cutting the flesh away from the central seed. Place the mango flesh in a processor and blend. You should get about 2¼ cups smooth mango pulp.
Add a tiny squeeze of lemon juice. You should barely be able to taste the lemon at this point — it should just lift the mango flavor. Add the water and blend again.
Pour mixture into ice pop molds, leaving ¼-inch of space at the top to let the mixture expand during freezing. Insert ice pop sticks and freeze.
Egyptian Hibiscus and Peach Ice Pops
An ancient Egyptian hibiscus drink called karkadé inspired this tart-sweet, ruby-colored ice pop. You can find dried hibiscus in Middle Eastern and Mexican groceries, plus specialty markets. And remember, we’re entering the season for Colorado’s own Palisade peaches. From “Ice Pops!” by Cesar and Nadia Roden. Serves 8-10.
Ingredients
1½ ounces dried hibiscus, briefly rinsed in cold water
3¾ cups water
½ cup plus 4 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 peaches, pitted and cut into slim wedges
Directions
Put the hibiscus and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar. Let mixture steep for a few hours.
Strain the mixture through a fine strainer, pressing on the hibiscus with the back of a spoon to extract the liquid. (You can also squeeze with your hands.) Place peaches in a small bowl, sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar, and let them macerate for 30 minutes.
Put a few macerated peach slices and their juices into each ice pop mold, then pour the hibiscus mixture in, leaving ¼ inch at the top to let the mixture expand during freezing. Insert the ice pop sticks and freeze.
Variations: Mix 1 teaspoon orange blossom or rosewater, or 1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger into the hibiscus water after you take it off the heat, or mix it into the peaches.
