Denver might not need another steak house — heaven knows we have enough hooved-protein emporiums — but pizza restaurants are another matter entirely.
Really, can you ever have enough pie slingers who treat dough and marinara as sacraments, and the brick oven as an altar?
To the list of Mile High pizza purveyors, add Brik on York.
The shop occupies a building that once housed the former York Theater, and you get reminded of that via vintage photos of the movie house, whose sign bragged “Matinee Every Day!”
Well, Brik peddles pies every day but Monday, and they’re worth a visit. Brunch is offered on Sundays, which should be good news for the 10 a.m. breakfast-with-Bloodys crowd.
The pizza has a thin crust that leans toward the Neapolitan style. They arrive piping hot from the wood-fired oven occupying the northwest corner of the room, and diners will note two things right off the bat: The kitchen is generous with ingredients, and apparently short on roller-style pizza slicers.
Instead, you are handed a big set of shears and invited to cut through the pizza like you would a sheet of construction paper. My days of kindergarten projects ceased in the Kennedy administration, so please, let’s stick with tradition.
But the pizzas are tasty. It’s not the most flavorful crust I’ve had, and could use a touch more salt, but deserves kudos for toothsome consistency.
Toppings are rewarding.
I loved the Diavola, a groaning-board of a pie that arrived bearing Calabria peppers, fresh mozzarella, marinara (made with San Marzano tomatoes, yes!) and crushed red peppers, all topped with Tender Belly habanero bacon, spicy micro greens and Goat Horn peppers.
It was a devil of a pizza, and had just a cooling touch of crème fraîche.
The Funghi pizza, an homage to the food world’s tastiest spore, was topped with with an array of sauteed mushrooms. Mozzarella, pecorino and a sprinkling of oregano rounded things out, along with some shaved tallegio.
My one complaint about that pie, and it’s a big one, is that it came with a drizzle of truffle oil. . Putting it on a pizza that already has beautiful mushrooms is pure lily-gilding.
Starters proved rewarding.
Plum-sized, coarse-ground meatballs were made with Angus beef and topped with housemade tomato sauce, pecorino and basil. I haven’t had a simple dish of spaghetti and meatballs in ages, but the dish made me pine for one.
Deviled eggs were creamy, spiked with cracked pepper and dill, then finished with Spanish paprika.
The caprese salad was a blast of summer, with juicy tomatoes and a garlicky basil. Also, again with the truffle oil.
In just a few weeks, Brik already has become a popular spot at the intersection of East Colfax Avenue and York Street.
There’s more entertainment than just watching the oven master loading and unloading his pizzas with flat wooden paddles: A stage occupies the restaurant’s east wall, and entertainment is offered some nights.
Along with beer and wine, Brik offers a solid cocktail program. Try the Paloma, made with tequila, simple syrup, grapefruit and lime juice with a shot of club soda.
And the daquiri might make you rethink your attitude toward that drink, especially if the last time you drank one was on spring break. This is the classic version with dark rum, maraschino liqueur and fresh lime.
Bottom’s up to that.
William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@denverpost.com or twitter.com/williamporterdp
BRIK ON YORK
Pizza and more
2223 E. Colfax Ave. 303-284-6754 brik.bar
*½
Good/Very Good
Atmosphere: Lively room with a stage; bustling vibe
Service: Friendly, accommodating
Beverages: Beer, wine, cocktails
Plates: Salads and antipasti, $7-$13; pizzas, $14-$16
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 3:30 p.m.-midnight; Friday-Saturday, 3:30 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Closed Monday.
Details: Street parking, plus a small lot behind the restaurant
Two visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
Stars reflect the dining reviewer’s overall reaction to the restaurant’s food, service and atmosphere.
