Francesca Rios, whose restaurant has been in Denver in one location or another for over 26 years, is without doubt Colorado’s most formidable Peruvian chef. At a recent screening of “Buscanda Gaston,” a documentary about Peruvian superchef Gaston Acuria, I had a chance to taste Francesca’s definitive versions of Peruvian classics: a smoky, tart, frothy Pisco Sour, Arroz con Pollo (a rice and chicken dish enlivened with cilantro purée), Papas a la Huancaina (a cold potato dish sauced with a bright yellow chili sauce) and Picarones (a kind of donut made from sweet potato and served with a complex sauce made with raw sugar and tropical fruit).
Of course, no Peruvian gathering is complete without ceviche, the marinated raw fish dish made with lime juice and chile purée. Here is Francesca’s recipe, which is made with indigenous ingredients that she imports and sells at her restaurant.
Francesca Rios’ Pura Peru Ceviche
Makes 4-6 servings.
Ingredients
12 ounces fresh white fish filets, such as striped bass, flounder or tilapia, cut into ¾-inch dice
1-2 tablespoons rocoto purée (see note)
⅓ cup fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons minced red fresno chiles
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro
Pinch salt
½ cup thinly sliced red onions
¼ cup frozen Peruvian giant corn (choncle)
Optional: roasted sweet potato chunks or Peruvian popcorn (canchita)
Directions
In a mixing bowl, place the fish pieces. Season with salt. Add the rocoto, lime juice, chiles, cilantro and red onions. Allow the flavors to marry for at least 5 minutes and for no longer than 30 minutes. Fold in the giant corn. Taste for seasoning.
If serving the sweet potato, make sure it is at room temperature. If serving the canchita, serve in a bowl on the side of the ceviche.
Note: rocoto, choncle and canchita can be purchased at Los Cabos, 1525 Champa St.
