The subtext to most wine-with-food rules — from the strict “red wine with red meat” to the modernist “drink whatever you like” — is that we’re pairing the wine with some form of animal protein. Everyone tells vegetarians and vegans to “just get a beer.” But what matters to successful wine pairing isn’t whatap dead on the plate; itap how itap prepared or what makes it up. Acidity in wine is the key to a tasty match with this dish, because itap about the only wine component that pairs favorably with acidity in food (and we have the queen of acids here, lemon juice).
Recipe from the September 2011 Everyday Food magazine.
HERE’S THE DISH …
Dice 6 medium zucchini; place in colander set in sink; toss with salt; let sit 20 minutes. In salted water, boil 1 pound orzo as directed by package; drain and rinse under cold water; transfer to a large bowl. Heat 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet; add 5 cups fresh corn kernels (from about 6 ears). Cook corn, stirring a bit, until just tender, 4 minutes. Add to pasta along with zucchini, 3 more tablespoons oil, 1 small red onion, chopped; 1 jalapeño, seeded and diced; 1 tablespoon lemon zest; and 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper; stir in 1 cup torn basil leaves and 2 cups crumbled feta cheese. Serves 4-6.AND PAIR IT WITH …
Pasta is the kitchen’s great canvas (and, in this recipe, so is the corn). Look for wines to match whatap on the canvas: lemon’s acidity, of course, but also salt (feta, salt) and chili heat. The zucchini’s along for the ride. (Itap August.) Aim for crisp, fresh, zippy whites, pinks, sparklers and light reds. A dry rosé is more than right. Also: off-dry rieslings, Loire whites, many a sauvignon blanc and lighter-styled pinot noir. Maybe mirror the Mediterranean in the dish with moschofilero from Greece. Just avoid high-extract, low-acid reds and whites such as shiraz, merlot or chardonnay made in warm climates.
