High summer is the ideal time for a cold supper, especially this year, with the temperatures soaring out of control.
Even in extreme heat, you still want to eat well. But keep the cooking simple, even when you have friends coming over. Thinking about the menu and the season, I was leaning toward traditional picnic fare — deviled eggs, shrimp cocktail, potato salad — but I wanted them all to be just a bit zippier than usual.
People love deviled eggs, right? They’re a little fiddly but worth the effort, and these have a nice kick and plenty of flavor. You must have hard-cooked eggs. I find lowering eggs into rapidly simmering water for 10 minutes, before plunging them into ice-cold water to halt the cooking, to be just right.
Once they’re cooled, I also crack each egg all over against the countertop and put it back into the water for a few minutes. The theory is that this lets water seep between the shell and the egg, allowing for easy peeling and smooth firm whites. I have found the method works well 99% of the time, though I always cook an extra egg or two just in case.
Halving the eggs, take care to remove the cooked yolks so you don’t damage the cooked egg white “boat.” Then, mash the yolks in a small bowl with the seasonings: Dijon mustard, serrano chile, lime zest and juice, and chopped dill, mint or tarragon. I often replace the traditional dollop of mayonnaise with softened butter. This adds a creamy texture and makes the filling a bit firmer, without the worry of leaving the mayo out in warm weather. Though the stuffed eggs look fine simply sprinkled with snipped chives, they are spectacular with a few bright marigold petals on top (or calendula or nasturtium).
For the main course, a pile of cold shrimp and a big bowl of potato salad fit the cold-supper bill perfectly.
Do take the trouble to cook your own shrimp, which will be fresher tasting and cheaper than store-bought cooked shrimp. I usually get frozen large wild-caught shrimp, which are thawed, peeled and deveined — ask someone to help if it seems daunting, but the work goes quickly.
A chef friend turned me on to the trick of quick-cured shrimp tossed with kosher salt and bit of baking soda. The shrimp get 20 minutes in this mixture and a rinse before a brief hot bath enhanced with lemon slices and bay leaves. With this method, once cooled, the shrimp are firm and juicy.
There’s nothing wrong with a horseradishy spicy tomato-based red cocktail sauce, but I came up with a bright green version, made with broiled tomatillos, cilantro and jalapeno, and it was a hit.
I love a good potato salad, but I’m more inclined to make one with a vinaigrette rather than a mayo-based dressing. This one is a gorgeous turmeric-hued yellow. So pretty, I thought it needed yellow or orange cherry tomatoes, too, to add juicy texture and to emphasize the color. Cumin, nigella seeds and scallions add depth. You boil and peel the potatoes, cut them into slices or wedges and dress them, letting them marinate at cool room temperature. Add the cherry tomatoes closer to serving, along with Thai basil or mint leaves.
To me, blackberries are synonymous with late summer. I just adore them, especially the wild ones picked straight from the brambles. Cultivated blackberries from the farmers market or backyard plot are great, too, and I love the elongated cousin called olallieberry.
I especially like combining summery blackberries with lemon and cream. An easy way to get there is by pairing a bowl of juicy berries with lemon sorbet and blob of whipped cream. But, if you’re up for it, a festive blackberry Napoleon is relatively easy and fun to assemble, using store-bought puff pastry. Once the components are ready — the pastry, the lemon curd, the whipped cream and the berries — it takes only a few minutes and is basically a dessert sandwich. Scattered with juicy berries and topped with another pastry layer, itap a dreamy finale for a fine cold supper.
Recipe: Deviled Eggs With Chile and Lime
People love deviled eggs, right? They’re a little bit fiddly but worth the effort, and these have a nice kick and plenty of flavor. Take care halving the eggs to remove the cooked yolks so you don’t damage the cooked egg white. Then, mash the yolks in a small bowl with the seasonings: Dijon mustard, serrano chile, lime zest and juice, and chopped dill, mint or tarragon. Here, softened butter replaces the traditional mayo for a creamy texture without worry. Though the stuffed eggs look fine simply sprinkled with snipped chives, they are spectacular with a few bright marigold petals on top (or other edible flowers like calendula or nasturtium).
By David Tanis
Yield: 6 to 12 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
Ingredients:
- 6 large eggs
- Ice
- 3 tablespoons softened unsalted butter or mayonnaise
- 1 teaspoon lime zest plus 2 tablespoons lime juice (from 1 lime)
- 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
- 1 teaspoon very finely chopped serrano chile (remove seeds for milder heat)
- Pinch of ground cayenne
- Salt and pepper
- 1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh mint, dill or tarragon
- 1 tablespoon snipped chives
- Flaky sea salt, for garnish
- Yellow or orange edible flower petals, like marigold, calendula or nasturtium (optional), for garnish
Preparation:
1. Set a medium pot of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Lower eggs into the pot and return to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Fill a bowl with cold tap water and ice.
2. Transfer eggs to the ice bath. When eggs are cool, forcefully tap each one all over to crack the shell. Return eggs to ice bath, so water seeps in. Peel eggs and blot on a towel.
3. Cut eggs in half lengthwise. With a small spoon, carefully remove yolks and place in a large bowl. Set the egg whites cut side up on a paper towel-lined plate.
4. To the yolks, add butter, lime zest and juice, mustard, chile and cayenne. Add salt and pepper to taste. Mash to a soft paste with a fork, then use a wooden spoon to thoroughly work the seasoning.
5. Stir in mint and most of the chives, reserving 2 pinches of chives for garnish. Taste and adjust seasoning. Spoon egg yolk mixture into the cups of the reserved egg whites, dividing it evenly among them.
6. Arrange egg halves on a platter. Sprinkle with flaky salt, remaining chives and petals, if using, and refrigerate until ready to serve. To serve, remove from the fridge and bring to room temperature.
Recipe: Salsa Verde Shrimp Cocktail
For a casual cold supper, you can’t go wrong with shrimp cocktail. This recipe veers from the traditional versions, but you’ll get no complaints. Do take the trouble to cook your own shrimp, which will be fresher tasting and cheaper than store-bought cooked shrimp. Here, large, wild-caught shrimp get thawed, peeled and deveined, then tossed with kosher salt and a bit of baking soda, which helps the shrimp stay firm and juicy, a tip from a chef.
By David Tanis
Yield: 6 servings
Total time: 50 minutes, plus 20 minutes curing
Ingredients:
For the Sauce
- 1 pound tomatillos, husks removed
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), more to taste
- 2 cups cilantro leaves and tender stems
- 2 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste with a little salt
- 1 small jalapeno, thickly sliced crosswise
- 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
- Pinch of ground cayenne
- 1/2 cup finely diced red onion
For the Shrimp
- 2 pounds wild shell-on large shrimp (16 to 20 per pound), fresh or frozen and thawed
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 2 large bay leaves
- 1/2 lemon, sliced
Preparation:
1. Prepare sauce: Heat the broiler. Put tomatillos on a rimmed tray on the top rack of the oven. Broil until well charred and somewhat softened, about 10 minutes. Remove and let cool.
2. Pulse tomatillos in a food processor until blended. Add salt, cilantro, garlic, jalapeno, red pepper and cayenne. Blend once more, until you have a bright green, thickish sauce. Stir in the diced onion by hand. Taste and adjust seasoning. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. (Sauce may be prepared 24 hours in advance.)
3. Prepare the shrimp: Peel, leaving tails on or off, and devein the shrimp, and place in a large bowl. Toss with salt and baking soda. Let sit for 20 minutes, then rinse with cold water and drain.
4. To a deep, wide saucepan or skillet, add shrimp, bay leaves and lemon slices. Cover with cold water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a brisk simmer. Cook until the shrimp have firmed up and turned pink, 2 minutes. Remove shrimp to a baking sheet and spread out to cool. Transfer to a serving platter or two, and chill. Serve with green sauce.
Recipe: Tomato-Potato Salad
This bright potato salad is dressed with a turmeric-tinged vinaigrette. It looks especially nice with yellow or orange cherry tomatoes, to add juicy texture and emphasize the color. Cumin, nigella seeds and scallions add depth. Boil and peel the potatoes, cut them into slices or wedges and dress them, then let them marinate at cool room temperature. Just before serving, add the cherry tomatoes along with Thai basil or mint leaves.
By David Tanis
Yield: 6 servings
Total time: 40 minutes
Ingredients:
- 3 pounds medium potatoes, such as Yukon Gold
- Salt and black pepper
- 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
- 2 teaspoons sugar
- 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 1/2 teaspoon nigella seeds
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
- 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1/2 cup slivered scallions, white and green parts
- 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved and lightly salted
- Thai basil leaves or fresh mint leaves, for garnish
Preparation:
1. Add potatoes to a large pot and boil over high heat until just done and a skewer goes in easily. Drain and let cool slightly until warm enough to handle. Peel and cut into 3/4-inch slices and place in a large bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper.
2. Meanwhile, in a small jar with a lid, put vinegar, sugar, turmeric, nigella, cumin and vegetable oil. Shake jar vigorously to emulsify the dressing. Taste and adjust seasoning.
3. Drizzle dressing over potatoes, add scallions and gently toss everything to coat. Transfer to a serving dish.
4. Scatter cherry tomatoes over the top, along with basil leaves or mint leaves. The salad is best served at room temperature.
Recipe: Blackberry Napoleon With Lemon Cream
Blackberries, lemon and cream are a winning combination, and, if you’re up for it, blackberry Napoleon is a relatively easy and fun dessert to assemble using store-bought puff pastry. Once the various components are ready — the pastry, the lemon curd, the whipped cream and the berries — it takes only a few minutes to put together. Itap basically a dessert sandwich: You mix whipped cream and lemon curd together and spread it over a sheet of pre-baked crisp flaky puff pastry. Scattered with juicy berries and topped with another pastry layer, itap a dreamy finale for a fine cold supper.
By David Tanis
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
Total time: 1 hour, 5 minutes
Ingredients:
For the Lemon Curd:
- 3 large eggs
- 1/4 cup/50 grams sugar
- Pinch of salt
- 1 teaspoon lemon zest
- 1/2 cup/120 milliliters lemon juice (from 3 lemons)
- 4 tablespoons/57 grams unsalted butter, cut into pieces
- Ice
For assembly:
- 1 (12-ounce/340-gram) package frozen puff pastry, thawed
- 1 cup/240 milliliters heavy cream
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- Powdered sugar, for cream, berries and garnish
- 2 pints/680 grams blackberries, rinsed and blotted
Preparation:
1. Make the lemon curd: In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, salt and lemon zest.
2. Put lemon juice in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, keeping a close eye on it so it doesn’t boil away. Slowly whisk hot lemon juice into egg mixture, then pour it all back into the saucepan.
3. Cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly until mixture begins to thicken, about 2 minutes. Continue cooking until the mixture is quite thick, another 2 minutes, then remove from heat. Whisk in the butter until the mixture looks shiny. Set bowl over ice, whisking occasionally until mixture is smooth and cool, then refrigerate. This should yield about 1 1/4 cups. Lemon curd may be prepared a day or two in advance.
4. Heat oven to 375 degrees.
5. Open the puff pastry sheet and lay it flat. Cut the sheet into two strips lengthwise (each about 4 1/2 by 12 inches). Set strips side-by-side on a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake on the top rack of the oven until puffed and golden, 20 to 25 minutes, taking care not to overcook. If necessary, tent with foil to keep from getting too brown
6. Let cool on a rack. Once cool, use a serrated knife to cut through the equator of the puff pastry, dividing both strips into 2 thinner pieces. If the interior of the pastry looks pale or undercooked, return to oven for a few minutes, cut-side-up.
7. Whip the heavy cream in a chilled bowl with the vanilla and 2 teaspoons powdered sugar until it holds soft peaks. Fold in the chilled lemon curd with a spatula — itap OK if the mixture is a little streaky.
8. Assemble: No more than 1 hour before serving, place one of the bottom pieces of baked pastry on a cutting board or a platter. Spread half the lemon-cream mixture across the length.
9. Quickly toss the berries in a bowl with 1 tablespoon powdered sugar. Scatter half the berries in a layer over the lemon cream.
10. Carefully place a top piece of pastry strip on top and press it into place. Keep cool but not refrigerated. Dust top with powdered sugar.
11. Repeat with the other pair of pastry strips, remaining lemon cream and berries. Cut crosswise into wide slices using the serrated knife and serve immediately.
This article originally appeared in .
