“Take out your map and look at it,” author Herman Melville said, “and see what corner of the world it occupies; how it stands there away off shore.” The author of the famous American whaling tale “Moby Dick” was talking about Nantucket, the picturesque island located 30 miles off the coast of Cape Cod, Mass. Although one of the country’s most popular summer destinations, it’s absolutely splendid in autumn, with its crimson-colored landscape, dramatic surf and cool crisp days. Affectionately known as the “Little Gray Lady of the Sea” because of the gray shingled houses and frequent fog, Nantucket is a beloved destination for travelers, fishermen and shoppers who revel in autumn’s inviting, traffic-free environment and in the island’s unique place in history.
Unlike today’s residents who are besieged by summer visitors, the island’s original inhabitants, the Wampanoag Indians, lived undisturbed here until the middle of the 17th century when an Englishman sold his interest to nine original purchasers “for the sum of thirty pounds and two beaver hats–one for myself, and one for my wife.” The new English settlers moved to the land surrounding the small sheltered harbor of Capaum Pond where the first white settlement, Sherburne, was established. In 1795, it was named Nantucket–an island, a county, and a town–the only place in America with the same name for all three.
Shortly after 1700, Quakerism began to take root, and as a group, the Quakers exerted a strong cultural influence. Many of their simple, sturdy dwellings, which are of great architectural interest today, have been continuously occupied. Along with homes built by prosperous merchants and master mariners during Nantucket’s whaling days, the island has more buildings listed in the “National Register of Historic Places” than anywhere in Massachusetts, including Boston, Plymouth and Salem. Today these stunning Georgian, Federal and Greek revival houses stand in pristine ranks along Main Street’s cobblestones and other lanes and byways, making Nantucket Town an architectural treasure trove. For anyone who’s counting, the island boasts more than 800 houses still standing that were built before the Civil War, and the entire island is recognized as an historic district.
Despite its history, architecture and charm, most visitors to the island originally arrived on graceful old steamers in search of saltwater bathing and clean fresh air. The first generation of “developers” on Nantucket sang the praises of the island for health and pleasure, and they built cottages and summerhouses here, advertising them in Boston and New York newspapers. Island housewives took in summer boarders, and great hotels were built in town and along the seashore at Brant Point, Surfside and Siasconset.
It was not until around 1880 that the American tradition of summer vacations was firmly established, and it was then that Nantucket was discovered to be an ideal destination. Once entrenched, summer tourism became the principle source of income for island residents and still is, although those in the know are increasingly attracted by the quiet beauty of autumn.
Unlike the short-lived fall foliage displays in other parts of New England, Nantucket’s distinctive autumn palette of rare wild flowers, bayberries, beach plums and scrub oak flourishes well into November. Birdwatchers will appreciate the number of rare and endangered species to be sighted, including eagles, songbirds, warblers and a wide variety of shorebirds. Striped bass and bluefish reach peak numbers in mid- to late October, and seals return to sun themselves along coastal jetties.
Shopping, of course, knows no season, and Nantucket is a haven for anyone interested in American and European antiques. When I visited recently, I spent an entire day perusing in shops along Old South Wharf, Straight Wharf, Centre, Candle, Main and South Water Streets. Some shops specialize in antiques indigenous to Nantucket, such as Nina Hellman Marine Antiques (48 Centre St.), where you’ll find antique scrimshaw (whalebone carvings), folk art and ship models; the Antiques Depot (14 Easy St.), one of the island’s oldest shops, features 18th- and 19th-century formal and country furniture; and Tonkin of Nantucket (33 Main St.), carries a fine selection of antique silver, china, marine paintings and ship’s models.
The Four Winds Crafts Guild (15 Main St.) represents many of the best weavers of the famous Nantucket Lightship baskets, unique examples of folk art, which were originally made by men stationed on the lightships off the coast of the island. The baskets were made from wooden molds in several sizes–from a “one egger” to a half-bushel–and were used for toting everything from eggs and berries to sewing and groceries. To economize on space, the “nesting” of baskets became popular, and baskets were made to fit into one another. When the original basket makers were retired from Lightship service, some continued to make baskets. Later, a hinged top was applied and became a ladies handbag. An authentic lightship basket is a highly treasured–and expensive–souvenir of Nantucket, with prices ranging from $50 to $1,500 depending on size.
For those who need more directed activities, or are looking for the perfect reason to visit, start with the Nantucket Arts Festival (Oct. 3 through 10), which celebrates the arts on the island with concerts, exhibitions, studio visits, demonstrations and a wet paint auction, featuring local scenes, lectures and the popular Organ Crawl. Given the size of the island, the number of unique organs installed in local churches is considered significant, and the Organ Crawl is organized to showcase them. Twenty-minute concerts take place in five local churches between 10 a.m. and noon on Oct. 9. All located within walking distance of each other, there are short intervals that allow for concertgoers to “crawl” from one church to the next. Sponsored by the Arts Council, the weeklong festival is a cornucopia of performing, visual and literary arts.
The annual Chowder Contest takes place the following weekend (Oct. 16) and features some of the island’s finest restaurants and chefs who vie for the honors of “Best Chowder on Nantucket.” Chowder lovers get to sample a dozen or more chowders and vote for their favorite.
In November, the holiday season begins in earnest at the top of Main Street with “Nantucket Noel” (Nov. 26), an event highlighted by the community Christmas tree lighting and caroling. For a taste of an old-fashioned Christmas, visitors are invited to join the islanders to decorate more than 150 Christmas trees in town in time for the “Christmas Stroll” weekend (Dec. 3 to 5). Santa arrives via a Coast Guard vessel at Straight Wharf and is escorted up Main Street in a horse-drawn carriage by the Town Crier. Carolers and musicians in period costumes stroll throughout the town, stopping at the “Stroll” food tent filled with holiday foods, or at period homes opened for the Christmas house tour. The fall and holiday seasons are a magical time on Nantucket, and once the New Year is rung in, the town, the island, and the county settle in for their long winter’s nap.
INCIDENTAL INTELLIGENCE
Where To Stay
The White Elephant, 50 Easton St., is Nantucket’s premiere harbor-side hotel. It was originally an assemblage of old houses, and in the early 1960s the cottages were moved to a new location (now known as the Captain’s Court) and a new hotel was built. In 1999, the hotel was refurbished to include 52 luxury rooms and suites, many with fireplaces and porches. Off-season rates in the main hotel range from $150 to $450; one- and two-bedroom garden cottages from $275 to $1,000. Special rates available for midweek stays. The hotel closes for the season Dec. 6. Phone (800) 475-2637 or visit www.whiteelephanthotel.com
The Wauwinet, Wauwinet Rd., is a Relais and Chateaux property with 25 exquisitely decorated bedrooms and a cluster of Nantucket-style cottages. Located nine miles outside of Nantucket Town and adjacent to the Great Point wildlife sanctuary, the inn is the only island hotel flanked by the Atlantic Ocean and Nantucket Bay. Off-season room rates range from $230 to $870; one- and two-bedroom cottages range from $950 to $1,000. The Wauwinet closes for the season Oct. 22. Phone (800) 426-8728 or visit www.wauwinet.com.
Harbor House Village, South Beach St., is a charming group of buildings that offer the ambiance of New England summer cottages. With 104 rooms, some of which are large enough to accommodate a family of five, the village is less than a five-minute walk into Nantucket Town. Off-season rates range from $120 to $320. Harbor House closes for the season Dec. 6. Phone (866) 842-9300 or visit www.harborhousevillage.com.
The Cottages, set directly on the waterfront, are perhaps the most unique way to experience Nantucket Town. The studios, one-, two-, and three-bedroom cottages are located on either Swain’s Wharf or Old South Wharf, and some larger condo-style units are situated directly on the harbor, literally at your doorstep. Rates range from $270 to $760. The cottages close for the season Oct. 11. Phone (866) 838-9253 or visit www.wharfcottages.com.
The Jared Coffin House, 29 Broad St., is a complex of six historic buildings, the original built in 1845. Named for a prominent shipbuilder, the premises are “reminiscent of a gentler past,” with 60 rooms decorated in distinctive period furnishing. The inn is open year-round. Room rates from Oct. 15 through April 15 are $150. Phone (800) 248-2405 or visit www.jaredcoffinhouse.com.
With only 1,200 licensed guest rooms on the island, lodging should be reserved well in advance. For further details, contact Nantucket Accommodations, P.O. Box 217, Nantucket, Mass. 02554, or phone (508) 228-9559.
Where To Eat
Brant Point Grill, located harbor side at The While Elephant hotel, is the island’s most celebrated steak and seafood restaurant. Fire cone cedar planked salmon, native lobster and aged beef are some the specialties. Open for lunch and dinner; rawbar and Sunday brunch in season. Dinner for two with wine $90 to $110; phone (508) 325-1320 or visit www.brantpointgrill.com.
Topper’s, located bayside at The Wauwinet Inn, offers sophisticated dining and an award-winning wine cellar. An off-season treat is its “Taste of Nantucket” program combining culinary experiences with local excursions. When weather permits, there’s also dining on the Bayview Terrace. Dinner for two with wine $100 to $125; phone (508) 228-0145.
The Chanticleer, 9 New St., in the village of Siasconset (‘Sconset to the locals), is a charming French restaurant under the direction of the Berruer family since 1970. Elegant to a fault, the inn consists of several different dining rooms, including the rose garden, grill and greenhouse. Dinner for two with wine $100 to $115; phone (508) 257-6231 or visit www.thechanticleerinn.com.
Black Eyed Susan’s, 10 India St., features an open kitchen with imaginative food at reasonable prices. Bookings can be made for the 6 p.m. seating only; otherwise, stand in line at 5:30 and hope to snag a reservation for later. Breakfast and dinner. Dinner for two with wine $40 to $50; phone (508) 325-0308.
Visitor Information
By ferry from Hyannis, Steamship Authority Ferry, (508) 477-8600; Flying Cloud-Steamship Authority Fast Ferry, (508) 495-3278; Hy-Line Cruises, (508) 778-2600, (800) 492-8082.
By air from New York, US Air Express, (800) 428-4322; from Boston, Cape Air, (800) 352-0714, Continental Express, (800) 525-0280, or US Air Express, (800) 428-4322; from Hyannis, Island Airlines (508) 778-2600, (800) 492-8082,or Nantucket Airlines, (800) 635-8787.
For complete information on Nantucket, contact the Chamber of Commerce, 48 Main St., (508) 228-1700 or visit www.nantucketchamber.org.
