At least once in your traveler’s life, you should permit yourself the pleasure of excess, to believe you too can experience a time of landed gentry, of castles and cliffs, and clever Gaelic gents with genuine smiles.
To dance across Ireland today is to envelop yourself in misty moors, hummocks and hollows, and dark woods where age-old mysteries still reside, in a place where the ruins of fortresses tower over a deep green landscape as a reminder of more turbulent times.
Blessed with the strongest economy in Europe for the past five years, Ireland remains in the midst of a modern-day renaissance, with the seemingly endless construction of contemporary commercial buildings, a thriving housing market, new attractions and a booming tourist trade.
The country’s 4 million residents, confined to an island only slightly larger than the state of West Virginia, have learned well the lessons of global tourism, and more than 6 million international travelers are expected to visit the republic this year.
Quaint country inns and extraordinary refurbished castles allow guests to live a lavish lifestyle with bedside sherries and dinner entrees in sterling silver service set upon Wedgwood chargers. In their rooms, guests are coddled with snuggly robes, monogrammed slippers, Moulton Brown bath accessories and towel warmers.
A self-guided driving tour of the countryside allows travel at a leisurely pace in a place where frequent stops are warranted by shimmering lakes, country mansions, rushing waterfalls, cliff-side castles and colorful villages. And, though Ireland now has an extensive network of modern motorways, the lush landscape is best savored on less-traveled rural roadways.
Driving from Dublin on the Irish Sea west to Galway on the Atlantic Ocean is only 140 miles and can be accomplished in just over three hours. But, you’ll be hard-pressed not to escape the four lanes for the backcountry roads, where you can expect to average 30 mph.
In addition to dramatic coastlines, you could encounter a sheepherder moving his sheep down a country lane to a field with taller grass, or strike up a conversation with a local in any of the ubiquitous pubs while enjoying a piece of shepherd’s pie washed down with a pint of lager.
Just minutes from Lilliput (named in honor of Jonathan Swift, author of “Gulliver’s Travels”), stands Belvedere House, Gardens and Park on the shores of Lough Ennell. The vast estate of parklands and wooded walks also is home to a restored Palladian mansion and Ireland’s greatest folly, the Jealous Wall. Conceived and constructed at immense cost by a bitter brother to block the view from his rival brother’s mansion in 1760, today the towering wall is used as backdrop for concerts and children’s programs, says Belvedere general manager Bartle D’Arcy.
“In an effort to attract family groups, we stage moralistic tales with media tie-ins from ‘Narnia’ to ‘Harry Potter,’ ” D’Arcy says. “We make it magical for children.”
Belvedere’s visitor center, theater and gallery give visitors a glimpse into the 250-year-old history of this country estate, as well as the cast of unusual characters who occupied it.
Among them was Robert Rochfort, the first “wicked earl of Belvedere,” who gained notoriety for imprisoning his second wife, Mary Molesworth, for 31 years on a spurious charge of infidelity. A stately, walled Victorian garden and several well-maintained trails afford lazy walks through the plantings and forest, as well as beautiful views of the lake that fronts the property.
A place for contemplation
A short drive away in the heart of the Connemara Mountains, Kylemore Abbey and Garden, the home of the Irish Benedictine nuns, affords a place of quiet contemplation that dates back three and a half centuries. The vast majority of the 10,000-acre estate, including its 6-acre Victorian walled garden and magnificent castle, is open to the public. Woodland walks and gurgling brooks meander through the grounds, allowing visitors to sense the monastic life followed by the nuns who call this home.
On the shores of Lough Corrib near Galway City stands Ashford Castle, which has hosted everyone from British Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain to entertainers Bob Hope and Barbra Streisand since it was established in 1939 as one of the most exclusive hotels in the world. But the guest list isn’t nearly as impressive as the property, service and setting.
Hidden in more than 350 acres of wooded parklands and fronted by an impressive nine-hole golf course, this 13th-century castle was once the country estate of the Guinness family. Today, Ashford is an internationally renowned retreat for celebrities and the wealthy and sports a falconry school, an exceptional equestrian center, tennis, shooting clays and archery activities, a spa and access to some of the best trout and salmon fishing in Ireland.
Staff greets guests, sorts out their fondest desires for their stay, escorts them on a short tour of the property, and wraps them in a warm cloak of hospitality commonly associated with the Irish. Fresh flowers grace the lobbies and guest rooms, where succulent pears, tasty truffles and a personal note from the general manager await the road-weary traveler.
Absolute luxury, breathtaking scenery and impeccable presentation and service make dining at Ashford Castle an experience fit for royals, and the hotel’s 12,000-bottle wine cellar has distinguished it as the lone property in Ireland recognized by Wine Spectator magazine.
Outside, manicured grounds provide a visual feast reminiscent of Versailles, and the Cong Wood is a pleasant surprise. Forest paths are carpeted with leaves and canopied by giant sequoias and silver firs, and swans and mallards splash in the river along a woodland walk that leads to the ruins of an ancient monastery.
Seventy-five miles south of Ashford, near the River Shannon, stands Dromoland Castle Hotel and Country Estate, one of Ireland’s premiere properties. Surrounded by 375 acres of shady woodlands, open pastures, lakes and streams, this 15th-century paradise is brilliant in every detail.
Sir Laurence Olivier’s restored 1975 Rolls-Royce greets guests upon arrival, as does the requisite suit of armor, heraldic banners, vaulted ceilings, tended gardens, world-class golf course and graceful Gothic architecture. Bolstered by a recent $33 million renovation, Dromoland’s ornate galleries, grand stairways, salons, lounges and crackling fires give guests a feeling of intimacy in a place that exudes wealth and refinement.
Outside, a 17th-century ornamental stone gateway leads to Dromoland’s walled gardens, and virtually every guest room and suite enjoys stunning views of the lake and wooded parklands. Lough Dromoland and its two freshwater streams, an enchanting 18-hole golf course, clay pigeon shooting, archery, tennis, horseback riding, and walking and jogging trails ensure that visitors won’t be confined to their rooms, even though that option remains attractive due to their elegance and comfort.
Ask directions from an attentive staff member at Dromoland, and you won’t receive a pointed finger, you’ll gain an escort. From the bedside bottle of blended whisky, herbs and honey, and Mrs. White’s Afternoon Tea, to restaurants that are redefining Irish cuisine, the Dromoland experience will linger long after the castle has faded in your rearview mirror.
Treasures of southwest coast
The southwest coast of Ireland affords quintessential landmarks including the towering Cliffs of Moher and Killarney National Park, where a jaunting car pulled by an Irish draft horse provides a wonderful way to tour the 11,000-acre Muckross Lake Park and Abbey.
Outside Cork stands one of Ireland’s greatest treasures — Blarney Castle. It was built nearly six centuries ago by chieftain Cormac MacCarthy, and millions have flocked to this palace of legends and lore simply to ascend the 106-step staircase and kiss the Blarney Stone. Once done, he who has kissed the stone is said to be imbued with the gift of eloquence and never more will be at a loss for words. It is no wonder that everyone from Sir Walter Scott to a host of American presidents and world leaders have been eager to take advantage.
In their quest to see all that Ireland offers, many visitors to Blarney forgo the castle’s gardens, lake walk, family home and Rock Close — decidedly a mistake in a place where time has its own rules. The Rock Close, a wooded walk dating to the time of wizards and soothsayers, is not to be dismissed.
One rock resembles a witch with her hat resting nearby. Negotiate the wishing steps, down and up backward with your eyes closed, and it is said your dream will come true. Consider a sacrificial stone situated to command the first rays of a morning sunrise, signaling the appointed time for a druidic sacrifice. Understandably, this walk is so eerie even in daylight that visitors seldom experience it at night.
Near the Ring of Kerry and just a few minutes from the village of Kenmare, where woodlands, rock and sea stretch as far as the eye can see, is Sheen Falls Lodge, a place of restful luxury. Set beside sandstone boulders and the soothing sounds of cascading Sheen Falls, this captivating country estate is a world away from your regular day. Gentle shadows cast by an open fire, the sweet smell of peat, and the melodic tinkle of ivories at its award-winning restaurant blend for a near-mystical experience in a place of singular beauty.
With the value of the U.S. dollar at a modern-day low, traveling abroad can be quite expensive. A pint of beer in the most modest Irish pub presently sells for $8. At premiere properties such as Ashford and Dromoland castles and The Westbury in Dublin, a cocktail and a glass of Chilean cabernet can set you back $66, not including tip. Expect to pay at least $100 per person for fine dining, excluding wine. Room rates at select properties start at $450 to $1,850 per night.
But just once in your short life you might imagine yourself among the elite travelers who know no bounds and value the attributes of impeccable service, outstanding surroundings and exceptional cuisine. Just put away the calculator, plunk down the plastic, embrace the euro, and realize that this is going to cost you a bloody fortune.
T.D. Griffith, the great-great-great- grandson of an Irish immigrant, has written or co-authored 47 books. He lives in Deadwood, S.D.
If you go
Exclusive Irish properties command premium prices, many beginning at $1,850 per night. But you needn’t pay the full rate for rooms. To get a bargain, take advantage of “distressed inventory” by booking one week to 10 days before your visit, generally online. You could save 50 percent.
Four Seasons Hotel Dublin: Simmonscourt Road, Dublin 4, Ireland; telephone 353 (1) 665 4000 or online at .
The Westbury: Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland; telephone 353 (0) 679 1122 or online at .
Ashford Castle: Cong, County Mayo, Ireland; telephone 800-346-7007 or online at ashford.ie.
Dromoland Castle: Newmarket-On- Fergus, County Clare, Ireland; telephone 800-346-7007 or online at dromoland.ie.
Sheen Falls Lodge: Kenmare, County Kerry, Ireland; telephone 353 64 41600 or online at sheenfallslodge.ie.
Dunbrody House: Arthurstown, New Ross, County Wexford, Ireland; telephone 353 (0)51 389600 or online at .
Waterford Crystal: Kilbarry, Waterford, Ireland; telephone 353 (0) 51 332200 or online at .
Tourism Ireland is on the Fifth Floor of Bishop’s Square Redmond’s Hill, Dublin 2, Ireland; telephone 800-223-6470 or online at .
