Peonies are in full bloom now — meaning that many folks who don’t grow them are now wishing they did, while others are wondering why theirs aren’t flowering like the neighbors’.
Paeonia hybrid is the official name for bush-style peonies. The colors range from the purest white to dark, rich reds and all the hues in between. Their blooms can be single- or double-flowered, the latter reminding me of the tissue flowers we all used to make our moms back when.
When choosing, check out their bloom time. Peonies are like tomatoes and tulips; some bloom early, some midseason and others late. By mixing the bloom periods, you can extend their show from mid-May through June.
Peonies are long-lived; 50 to 60 years is not an uncommon life expectancy. In addition, their tuberous roots can be divided and passed down through generations, allowing them to garner the term “heirloom plants.”
They bloom from mid-May through June; since they bloom prior to July 4, they should be divided in the fall. As for planting, fall is also best; however, many nurseries offer them for sale in the spring. The drawback to planting in the spring is they tend to suffer a bit of a setback for a year or two as they prefer the cooler soil temperatures of fall for root development.
Peonies can be purchased as either plants or as tubers. Regardless of how you buy them, here is the trick to planting them: If you look at the topside of the tubers you will notice red “eyes” or bumps. These “eyes” are where the shoots emerge from come spring. To properly plant a peony these “eyes” must be planted no deeper than 1 to 2 inches or they will not flower.
If you are ogling over your neighbor’s spectacular peony blossoms and crying over the lack of your own, the first place to start is to check the planting depth. Keep in mind, a layer of mulch counts, so if applying mulch, do so very thinly.
Peonies are definitely not shy when it comes to demanding full sun and a rich, well-drained soil that is moisture-retentive. They are very heavy feeders and a rich organic soil that will provide a season-long natural nutrient source is highly recommended. You may top-dress the crown area come fall with bone meal and gently scuff into the soil; then, in early spring, apply a complete granular fertilizer such as 5-10-5.
For a pH, peonies require a 6.5 to near neutral and will reward you handsomely with stately, shrublike plants that can easily max out at 36 inches in both height and width. Even after their bloom, the plant that remains is stunning. By the end of August, its leaves will begin to turn their autumn hue of burgundy. In late fall, cut the stems right to the ground and remove all leaves and stems from the garden to discourage disease from overwintering.
As for problems, if your plants suffer from buds that form, then turn brownish-black, look as if they are growing fuzz during wet periods and refuse to open, chances are they are being attacked by Botrytis blight.
At this time in the growing season there is little you can do except remove the infected buds and flowers, disposing of them in the trash, not the compost heap. Come fall, be sure to cut and completely remove all plant debris. Then, next spring, when the red pointy shoots emerge from the ground, treat them with a fungicide labeled for Botrytis control every 10 days.
Peonies are self-sufficient for years and years. Then, when your children have gardens, you can pass some tubers to them and they to their children.
