I created my version of this traditional Scottish soup for Robert Burns Day at Argyll. Burns Day, which was Jan. 25, is like the Scottish Fourth of July, and some version of haggis is usually served, bagpipes (the musical equivalent of haggis) are played and Robert Burns’ droll “Ode to Haggis” is usually recited.
Cullen Skink is made with bright yellow smoked haddock, a product that is common in the British Isles and France yet little known here. Any non-oily smoked whitefish (smoked cod especially) works.
There is no thickener in the recipe, no roux or cornstarch or other floury pastes. One of my favorite techniques for thickening a chunky soup is used: Half the soup is blended and stirred back into the pot along with the chunky bits still left in there.
Cullen Skink: Smoked Fish Chowder with Whitefish, Potatoes and Leeks
Makes about 6 cups.
Ingredients
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup water
3 leeks, white parts only, diced and rinsed well
4 medium Yukon Gold Potatoes, peeled and diced
8 ounces smoked whitefish, diced
½ cup dry white wine
3 cups clam juice or chicken broth
Pinch turmeric
1 bay leaf1 teaspoon toasted ground fennel seeds
Few shots hot sauce
½ cup sour cream
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Directions
In a Dutch oven, bring the butter and the water to a boil over low medium heat. Add the leeks and a pinch of salt and cover. Simmer until the leeks are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the Yukon Gold potatoes and a pinch of salt and cover. Simmer another 10 minutes. Add the whitefish and white wine and reduce the liquid by half.
Add the clam juice or chicken broth, the turmeric and the bay leaf. Simmer until the potatoes are tender.
Add two thirds of the soup to a blender along with the fennel, hot sauce and sour cream (be sure to remove the bay leaf) and blend until smooth. Return the blended soup to the pot and add the lemon juice and any additional salt and pepper.
Serve with bread and butter.
