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I know this sounds like something my mother would say, but one of the true tests of a cook’s skill is what they can do with leftovers.

One of the leftovers you can count on having in your fridge during holiday season is turkey. Something happens, of course, once a roast meat like turkey has been refrigerated: The meat seems to become dense and dry, and the skin loses it crispness. Reheating the meat using dry heat by throwing it in the oven or in the microwave makes it tough and does nothing about the dryness.

A much better technique for bringing the turkey back to life is to use what the French call a beurre fondu, which is a kind of emulsified sauce made with butter and some other liquid, traditionally water. I prefer to make my beurre fondu with chicken stock instead of water, and to add a few whole sage leaves as well. It’s true that the skin doesn’t crisp up, but it does add a lot of flavor.

Caramelized onions, given some sweetness with orange juice and zest and tartness with vinegar, add a depth of flavor to this sandwich, and arugula or watercress give it a peppery bite.

Note: If making the caramelized onions is too much trouble, add thin slices of apple instead.

Turkey Sandwich with Caramelized Onions and Arugula

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, sliced thinly into half moons

Zest and juice of 1 orange

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

12 ounces skin-on cooked turkey, preferably breast

1 cup chicken stock

2 tablespoons butter

6 sage leaves

Handful watercress or arugula leaves

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

4 ciabatta buns

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions

In a medium sauté pan over low-medium heat, warm the oil and stir in the onions. Cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until they are golden. Add the orange zest and juice and cook until the liquid has thickened. Add the red wine vinegar off the heat and season the onions with salt and pepper. Keep at room temperature until ready to use.

Place the turkey on a cutting board skin side up. With a serrated knife or an electric carving knife, slice it is as thinly and evenly as possible, making sure the skin stays attached to the meat.

In a medium sauté pan, reduce the chicken stock by half. Swirl in the butter and the sage leaves. Season the stock mixture with salt and pepper, bring to a simmer and cook until fairly thick. Place the slices of turkey in the liquid and gently warm, turning the slices in the liquid.

Halve the ciabatta rolls and spread the mayonnaise on the inside. Divide the turkey among the four sandwiches, topping with a little bit of the cooking liquid. Top with the caramelized onions, then the arugula or watercress. Serve immediately.

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