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Plated flank steak with three sauces.
Plated flank steak with three sauces.
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People don t get sauced as much as they used to and that s a shame.

For while today s focus on natural foods presented bare without adornment has its benefits (notably fewer calories), the sauces of old had their charms.

Used judiciously, a sauce enhances flavor rather than hides it. And nothing needs a kick in the taste buds more these days than the beef, pork and chicken found in most supermarkets. Mass production and a ruthless focus on lean, leaner, leanest cuts has robbed so many of our old favorite meats of their flavor.

Sauces can come to the rescue. Here are three simple ones whose contrasting colors and flavors work well with grilled meats, especially flank steak, pork tenderloin and chicken kabobs. The sauces are so easy to prepare you can make, and serve, all three at once.

Because of this, portions are small. The recipes can easily be doubled or tripled if desired.

MENU:

Grilled steak with 3 sauces

TIPS:

Soy sauce can be substituted for teriyaki. Use a Japanese brand; the sauce is milder and far less salty. If you must use a Chinese soy sauce, taste for salt and dilute if necessary with water or vinegar.

A food processor or blender makes short work of the green parsley sauce but you can always chop by hand. To make chopping easier, roll the parsley leaves into a tight ball before you begin slicing. This technique keeps the sprigs in place on your cutting board.

GRILLED STEAK WITH THREE SAUCES

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Grilling time: 13 minutes

Resting time: 5 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

While tougher cuts like hanger steak and flank steak have their own flavorful appeal, a big, juicy porterhouse is called for here. Take your pick of one or all of the sauces here; they can be prepared while the grill is heating.

1 thick porterhouse steak, about 3 pounds

2 teaspoons each: salt, freshly ground pepper

1. Prepare a grill for direct high heat. Season steak with salt and pepper. Grill the steak 5 minutes; turn. Grill to desired degree of doneness, about 8-10 minutes. Set aside 5-10 minutes before slicing.

Sauce recipes:

Mustard-butter sauce: Mash 1/2 stick ( 1/4 cup) softened unsalted butter with 1/4 cup Dijon mustard to make a smooth, thick paste; season with 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Makes 1/2 cup.

Teriyaki sauce: Whisk together 1/4 cup teriyaki sauce, 1 tablespoon white vinegar, 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil and 1/4 teaspoon Chinese chili sauce in a small bowl. Makes about 1/4 cup.

Parsley sauce: Combine 1 bunch flat leaf parsley, 3 chopped cloves garlic, 1/4 cup olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a food processor or blender. Pulse until sauce is coarsely textured. Makes 3/4 cup.

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