In “Rosa’s New Mexican Table,” chef Roberto Santibañez says he prepares dried ancho chiles by gently slitting them from the “shoulder” to the tip and carefully removing seeds and ribs without tearing the chile or pulling out the stem. Heat 4 cups water, 2/3 cup cider vinegar, 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar, 2 tablespoons molasses, a stick of cinnamon and 1/2 teaspoon salt, remove from the heat and submerge chiles for an hour. If you don’t feel like reconstituting the anchos, substitute roasted and peeled poblano chiles. Serve with tangy Cooked Green Salsa. Makes 6 servings.
Ingredients
FOR THE FILLING:
1/3 cup (about 3 ounces) soft goat cheese
3/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 1/2 pounds trimmed beef tenderloin or skirt steak, cut into 1/4-inch dice
6 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps coarsely chopped (about 2 1/2 cups)
6 ounces cremini mushrooms, stems trimmed, coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)
1 large white onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 medium jalapeños, finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
2 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
3/4 teaspoon cumin
3/4 tablespoons olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
FOR CHILES:
6 large (about 6 inches long) fresh or dried ancho chiles, prepared for stuffing (see above)
3 cups Cooked Green Salsa
Directions
With a rack in the center position, preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Filling: Put goat cheese and cilantro in a large bowl and set aside. Toss beef, mushrooms, onion, jalapeños, oregano, salt and cumin in a bowl. Heat half the oil in a large skillet over high heat until very hot but not smoking. Carefully add half the beef mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until beef is cooked through and mushrooms are lightly browned, about 8 minutes. The timing may vary, and the beef and mushrooms may give off liquid that will have to be cooked off before mushrooms will brown. Scrape into bowl with goat cheese and cilantro and repeat with remaining beef-mushroom mixture, using remaining oil. When all beef-mushroom mixture has been cooked, stir well to blend in cheese and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper.
Drain chiles and stuff them. There should be enough beef mixture to fill each chile, open side up, without overstuffing, so the cut in the chile can be closed over the filling. Place chiles in a baking dish that holds them comfortably. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until warmed through, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat Green Salsa to simmering. Ladle about 3/4 cup of sauce onto each plate, top with a chile, and serve.
Wine ideas: The hearty flavors of these stuffed chiles make a great excuse to check out the meaty, monastrell-based reds coming out of Jumilla, Spain these days. Julia Roch makes a powerful, tannic version called Las Gravas (about $25); look also for Carchelo and Pannaroz, which run about $10.-Tara Q. Thomas
