Dried morels have to be reconstituted in water, which dissipates a lot of their flavor. If you have to use dried, reconstitute them in the smallest amount of warm water possible to make the mushrooms pliable. Then sauté the mushrooms in butter, adding a few drops of water at a time until they are soft with a little structure to the bite. A more practical alternative would be to simply substitute any fresh, wild mushrooms available.From “Doña Tomás: Discovering Authentic Mexican Cooking.” Makes 4 servings.
Ingredients
POBLANO CREAM:
1 large poblano chile, toasted, peeled, stemmed and seeded
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
1/2 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 cup crema (sold in Mexican markets and some grocery stores) or sour cream
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
FILLING:
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 shallot, minced
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 pound morels, coarsely chopped
Kosher salt
1/2 bunch asparagus, diagonally sliced 1/8 inch thick
12 (5-inch) fresh corn tortillas
5 ounces goat cheese
1/4 bunch cilantro, stemmed and chopped, for garnish
Directions
Poblano cream: Place chile and milk in a blender and purée until smooth. Transfer to a saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. In a separate small skillet, combine oil and flour over low heat to make a roux. Stir constantly for about 10 minutes, until golden brown with a nutty aroma. Whisk roux into boiling milk mixture and decrease heat to achieve a gentle simmer; the sauce should begin to thicken immediately. Simmer 20 minutes to cook out the flour taste, seasoning with salt as necessary. Remove from heat and whisk in crema or sour cream and whipping cream. Adjust seasoning with salt as necessary and keep warm.
Filling: Place a large sauté pan over high heat and add oil. Add shallot and sauté 3-4 minutes until translucent. Add butter and morels and decrease heat to medium. Season with some salt and stir 1-2 minutes, until mushrooms are heated through. Add asparagus and a little more butter if necessary and sauté 2-3 minutes, until asparagus is tender. Adjust seasoning with salt as necessary.
Heat and lightly grease a griddle. Working in batches as necessary, place tortillas on griddle to warm. Place a small scoop of filling on one half of each tortilla, sprinkle with goat cheese, and fold in half with a spatula. Brown quesadillas 3 minutes on each side, until cheese is melted and outside is crisp. The quesadilla can be held warm in a 200-degree oven as you finish the cooking process, but don’t leave them too long or they’ll become tough.
To serve, arrange the quesadillas on plates or a platter, drizzle the centers with the poblano cream, and garnish with cilantro. Serve warm.
Wine ideas: The grassy flavor of asparagus and the goaty tang of goat cheese call out for the green, limey bite of sauvignon blanc. Rather than opting for the extreme style common in New Zealand, look to California for a richer, softer version, like one from Mason, Gott or Girard (all under $20).-Tara Q. Thomas
