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In Southern Thailand, many of the lively ferry terminals double as fish markets. Although the bright color of green-lip mussels will lend an extra dimension to this dish, it can be made with any type of mussels — use the freshest you can find. Because I have noticed that the sweet chili sauce used in Thai recipes is nearly always commercially made, I do not bother making my own. From “Where Flavor was Born” by Andreas Vierstad, serves 2 as a main course, 4 to 6 as a starter.

Ingredients

   3 pounds mussels, scrubbed

   1 tablespoon vegetable oil

   3 shallots, finely chopped

   1 to 5 small green Thai or other small hot chiles, finely chopped

   2 stalks lemongrass, bruised and finely chopped

   1 tablespoon coriander seeds, bruised

  1/3 cup seafood, vegetable or chicken stock

   2 tablespoons chopped holy basil (also called tulsi) or Thai basil for garnish

     Sweet chili sauce for serving

Directions

Place mussels in a colander under running water. Discard any mussels with cracked shells, or any that do not close tightly when under cold water. Pull off any stringy bits, or beards, protruding from shells. (This should be done just before cooking, as the necessary process of removing the beards can cause the mussels to die, and you want them as fresh as possible.)

Heat oil in a wok or wide pot. Add shallots and chiles and saute 2 minutes, or until slightly softened. Add lemongrass, coriander seeds, stock and mussels. Cover and steam 3 minutes. Turn shells with a wooden spatula or spoon, cover and cook 3-5 more minutes, until almost all the mussels have opened.

Transfer to deep plates, garnish with basil, and serve immediately, with sweet chile sauce for dipping.

Variation: This recipe can be made richer and fuller in flavor by using 1 cup sweetened coconut milk or cream instead of the stock and 1 tablespoon green curry paste in addition to the other spices in the cooking liquid.

Note: Cooking the mussels until all the shells have opened will result in overcooking many of them. Discard any unopened mussels as you eat — some will open as they are served — or lift out the opened mussels from the pot and continue cooking the unopened ones 2-3 minutes longer. If there are any that have still not opened, discard them.

Wine ideas:

If you’ve made this Thai- hot, then the only thing you’ll want with it is a beer — a cold Singha would be refreshing. If you’ve gone for a more genteel version, then do the same with your bubbles, and pour a sparkling wine. Prosecco has a peachy flavor that isn’t very sweet yet contrasts nicely with the spice — and the price is right. Nino Franco, Bisol, Le Bellrive, Ombra all run less than $20.
Tara Q. Thomas

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