Raw vegetables have a sharper, fresher taste than cooked ones; what I think of as the “bite” of a vegetable — the mustardy, spicy, horseradish-like flavor — is invariably mellowed by boiling or sauteeing or grilling.
That doesn’t mean a raw vegetable should be untreated. There are few things more boring than a platter of crudites — carrot sticks, celery sticks, peppers and other raw vegetables served with some mayonnaise-based dip.
Raw vegetables usually need to be sliced very thinly and then quickly marinated in something with acidity and salt to break down their cell structure and introduce some more concentrated flavor.
I like to prepare raw broccoli (or raw cauliflower) with the following dressing. The whole vegetable is used: the juicy stem is peeled of its tough skin and sliced into rectangles, and the florettes are cut into thirds and shaved into medallions.
The dressing, a combination of fresh lemon juice and zest, Sambuca (a sweet anise-flavored liqueur), toasted almonds, pungent anchovies and cold-pressed almond oil is rich and delicious, and equally good with shaved fennel.
Shaved Broccoli Salad With Almond Vinaigrette
Serves 4.
Ingredients
1 head broccoli, rinsed
3 tablespoons finely diced red onion
Almond Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Directions
To prepare the broccoli, cut off the stem. Peel the stem with a sharp paring knife. Slice the stem lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices with a Japanese mandoline. Cut the broccoli head lengthwise into three pieces, then slice vertically with the mandolin into 1/4-inch slices.
Toss the broccoli with the red onion, the dressing and salt and pepper. Let sit at least 5 minutes before serving.
Almond Vinaigrette
Ingredients
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Zest of 1 lemon, finely chopped
2 anchovies, finely chopped
Pinch chile flakes
2 tablespoons Sambuca
1/4 cup toasted sliced almonds, finely chopped
6 tablespoons almond oil or 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Directions
Whisk the lemon juice and lemon zest together. Whisk in the anchovies, chile flakes, Sambuca and toasted almonds. Slowly whisk in the oil to emulsify. Refrigerate until ready to use.
