Izakaya Den has long been a favorite among the restaurants along Denver’s South Pearl Street, but , chef-owner Toshi Kizaki raised the bar on a menu that had already earned raves.
The room itself is sleek and contemporary, dimly lit but with glowing pockets of light. Above the service line is a glass mural of stylized fish, backlit and pink as the inside of a conch shell. A bamboo garden springs beside a glass elevator, and overhead lanterns are sheathed in vintage kimono fabric.
The restaurant derives its name from izakaya, the name for a type of Japanese restaurant that serves small, simple plates to accompany sake. Think of it as that nation’s version of a Spanish tapas-and-sherry spot.
While Kizaki’s food is deeply rooted in Japan — ramen and udon noodle dishes, plus a gamut of sushi and sashimi — other influences abound.
A shrimp-and-grits plate ($12) subs quinoa for the ground corn, and dollops it with sriracha butter. Interesting, but Southerner that I am, I’ll stick with the traditional version, preferably made with grits.
Also on the menu: panzanella salad ($13), with lump crab tossed with toasted focaccia, goat cheese and pistachios. It is an excellent version of the Italian classic, and the generous helping of crab is a creative choice in a salad that is traditionally protein-free.
We arrived during happy hour on one evening, and immediately ordered the duck crostini ($5), following a recommendation from the affable young woman behind the bar, who was obviously as interested in the food as the cocktails she crafted.
The duck was a standout — Bird thou never wert — the meat shredded and savory, touched with hoisin, and boasting deep dark flavors that made the freezing temperatures outside the restaurant more bearable to face, albeit not with the . (Lit-major flashback to the opening lines of the poem “To a Skylark”: “Hail to thee blithe spirit/Bird thou never wert…)”
We were also smitten by lobster wontons ($12), plump and accompanied by bok choy and shiitake mushrooms. It was seasoned with ponzu, the citrus-based sauce popular in Japan.
Izakaya Den offers seven types of noodle dishes, most in small ($13) or large ($16) portions.
Tan-tan ramen was another winter warmer, the tender noodles swimming in pork broth and flecked with spicy minced pork. Shoyu ramen was a bowlful of umami heaven, a savory soy-bonito broth packed with roasted pork bits, bok choy and spinach.
Sashimi fans should try the New Style Sashimi ($16), seared salmon and whitefish slicked with soy sauce spiked with yuzu, a Japanese citrus whose tartness is reminiscent of grapefruit.
Beef eaters have never been ignored at Izakaya Den. Indeed, the place has always been a great compromise for parties that include both sushi fans and those poor souls who crack wise about how “Back home, we call sushi ‘bait.’ “
The Den’s short ribs ($16) are lovely, tender slide-off-the-bone beef with a sweet marinade, paired with jalapeños, mushrooms and green beans.
Izakaya’s wine list is smart and fairly priced, and the staffers can ably steer you to what you want — or need — and will gladly offer short pours for taste tests. We enjoyed a glass of Château Cantelaudette, a crisp, minerally white from Bordeaux. At $8.50, it was almost as easy on the wallet as the palate.
A bonus for folks with restricted diets: Menu items are marked as gluten-free or vegan, as warranted.
When I first heard that Izakaya Den was moving down the street from its former digs, I was a bit bummed. I liked that space, with its dark wood, warmth and inviting L-shaped bar.
But the new room trumps the old one. I’ll be back, cold weather or warm.
William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@ denverpost.com or twitter.com/williamporterdp
IZAKAYA DEN
Japanese. 1487 S. Pearl St., 303-777-0691, izakayaden.net
***Great
Atmosphere: Sleek, contemporary
Service: Pleasant, knowledgeable
Beverages: Beer, wine, cocktails
Plates: Noodles, $13-$16; small plates, $4.50-$12; sushi platters, $23-$35
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Friday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
Details: Street parking
Two visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
Stars reflect the dining reviewer’s overall reaction to the restaurant’s food, service and atmosphere.
