When I was in high school, my parents took my sisters and me to Paris. That trip shaped me in so many ways, most of them culinary. So many of the dishes I make even today were inspired by that trip.
One night, we went to a small, rustic restaurant in the heart of the city. The meal started with hunks of cheese, sausages, cornichons and a bowl of “country caviar.” The bread, cheese and meat were as delicious, as you would expect, but it was that last item that blew us away.
It’s hard to believe that a trio of sisters from the South would get so excited over a bowl of what basically was just a cold lentil salad. But these lentils were different from the Indian lentils we had eaten in dal. They were small, greenish-black and didn’t lose their shape.
It was evident why the restaurant referred to the dish as country caviar. It looked like caviar. The lentils were perfectly cooked so that they were creamy and popped a little in your mouth. They were dressed simply with a homemade vinaigrette slightly pungent with sharp Dijon mustard and red-wine vinegar. Minced shallots, carrot and curly parsley added color, crunch and flavor. The dish was simple, but the combination was rich and the texture addictive.
We couldn’t get enough ot it. I asked the owner of the restaurant what they were, and he wrote the name, Lentilles du Puy.
Often labeled green French lentils in the U.S., Lentilles du Puy are grown in the rugged mountainous region of Auvergne in the South of France.
Happily, the recipe traveled well, and my sisters and I make the salad often. It is a side dish that goes with just about everything. And this time of year, when I am paying penance for all my holiday indulgences, I am excited to make food that is both healthy and delicious.
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French lentil salad start to finish: 25 minutes. serves 4.
Ingredients
1 cup dried small green lentils (French lentils or lentilles de Puy)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 small carrot, finely chopped
2 medium shallots, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh curly parsley
Directions
Place the lentils in a mesh strainer and rinse with cool water. Discard any gravel or other debris.
Place lentils in a 4-quart saucepan, then add enough water to cover by 2 inches. Set over medium-high heat and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, then simmer until the lentils are just tender but not falling apart, about 15 minutes. When lentils are done, drain them, then return them to the saucepan and cover. Set aside.
In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar and a pinch each of salt and pepper. While continuing to whisk, drizzle in the oil and whisk until fully combined and emulsified.
Drain any lingering liquid from the lentils, then place in a medium bowl. Add vinaigrette, carrot, shallots and parsley. Toss gently, taking care not to smash lentils. Taste and adjust vinegar and salt. The dressing should have a hint of mustard and enough acidity to offset the richness of the lentils.
Serve the salad warm, room temperature or chilled. Keeps in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Nutrition information per serving: 320 calories; 170 calories from fat; 19 g fat (2.5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 30 g carbohydrate; 8 g fiber; 2 g sugar; 10 g protein; 230 mg sodium
