House-cured meats have teetered on the point of hipster cliché in recent years, and jaded diners can almost be forgiven for wondering how many chefs really need to channel their inner Brooklynite to turn out versions of pastrami, country ham, pepperoni and the like.
But when you taste the real deal, a thinly shaved, silken slice of meat that really does seem to melt in your mouth, culinary bliss takes a cleaver to cynicism.
is the real deal.
Opened in mid-autumn, this spot just off Tennyson Street in Denver’s Berkeley neighborhood is a combination deli and market that is consistently turning out some of the best sandwiches and cured meats in the city.
It is the vision of two men, co-owners Bill Miner, who serves as chef, and Brian Albano, the salumiere who runs the curing operation off the kitchen.
Il Porcellino is a cozy place, simply outfitted with rustic wooden tables that sit on a concrete floor with a tawny glaze. The room seats 18. Regulars range from tradesmen to pram-pushing moms from the neighborhood.
For now, the staff is concentrating on lunch and their catering sideline, though a liquor license is in the works and dinner service will be launched by June.
Meats are locally sourced. Bison comes from the state’s Eastern Plains and duck, soon to join the menu, hails from the Western Slope.
Where to start? Hey, where to stop?
A sandwich dubbed The Bacon makes a great first order for folks who worship at the altar of the swine. The bacon isn’t the familiar breakfast stuff. It is a shaved, lightly cured variety that more closely resembles a well-marbled picnic ham.
The kitchen piles it on jalaleño-cheddar slices from Grateful Bread, then dresses it with apple butter, aioli, tomatoes and a sheep’s-milk fondue. The result is umami bliss, a sandwich so luscious and savory, with the balance of sweetness and acidity, that you fear coming to the last bite.
All sandwiches come with a side of your choice. They are nicely thought out.
A salad of crimson lentils with caramelized root vegetables, finished in an orange-fennel vinaigrette, was refreshing on a warm winter day. On a bone-cold day — and more should be on the way — consider opting for the pork cassoulet with Anasazi beans, salami, ham and thyme.
The Bacon sandwich is one of three sandwiches, including The Hoggie and The Bison, that are menu staples. (A fourth fixed item, The Elementary, is a sandwich for kids and kids at heart featuring housemade nut butter and a seasonal jam on wheat bread.)
Creative touches abound, elevating the sandwiches above the standard versions. The Waldorf was a take on the classic mid-century salad, but the chicken was augmented by crisp chicken skin; the walnuts showed up in a celery pesto, and there was a grape compote to go with the apple, which was grilled.
Patrons jonesing for an Italian sub should try The Hoggie. Built on a hoagie roll, it was a pile of Genoa coppa cotta and Berkeley ham dressed with arugula, tomato, aioli and vinaigrette. Gentle prod: Some provolone, please.
A trio of daily soups are on the menu, with the gumbo a standing item. It is anchored by chicken thighs, andouille sausage, tasso (the seasoning ham from Louisiana), pork broth and crispy okra.
Presentation is not an afterthought. The sandwiches arrive on stylish plates of white ceramic. Real flatware is used.
Visitors should make a point of checking out the deli case by the register.
The meats include lonza, a house-cured pork loin with its snowy-white fat cap left intact. Yes, they’ll carve off a thin slice for you to sample. The stout of heart can find green chile head cheese. There is even scrapple, which you just don’t see in these parts. It is different from the kind you find in Pennsylvania, a mix of liver and hearts with cornmeal, akin to the liver mush found in the Upper South.
“We don’t use liver or hearts like in regular scrapple,” said Bryan Languell, the chef de cuisine and engaging counter presence. “Just whatever end cuts are left from the deli case when we make a batch.”
Languell says two country hams are now curing and should be ready for Christmas.
Cheeses are sourced from local makers such as , , ., and .
On a recent afternoon, co-owner Bill Miner took a break from the lunch service and talked about his hopes for the business.
“It’s been great so far,” he said. “We’ve really been embraced by this awesome neighborhood.”
When a restaurant delivers at this level, it deserves a whole-hog hug.
William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@denverpost.com or @williamporterdp
IL PORCELLINO SALUMI
Cured Meat Emporium
4334 W. 41st Ave. 303-477-3206 ilporcellinodenver.com
***
Great
Atmosphere: Cozy, 18-seat room with rustic touches
Service: Fast, friendly, engaged
Beverages: Sodas for now; a liquor license is pending
Plates: Sandwiches, $6-$13; salads, $9; soups, $5-$6.
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m.
Details: Street parking
Two visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
Stars reflect the dining reviewer’s overall reaction to the restaurant’s food, service and atmosphere.
